CX-7 Adjustable Swaybar Endlinks...

[Superstretch18]

...now available!

http://www.awrracing.com/pages/store.html
*Because of that website's set-up, you'll need to navigate through the CX-7 link when you get there.

Stock rod is all the way on the right in this photo:
http://www.awrracing.com/store/contents/image.php?image[0]=images/products/cx7link.jpg

Here's an excellent explanation of the swaybar and associated components from the Subaru forum. Not everything is transferrable to the CX-7, but does provide a good explanation of why this might be a great upgrade in leu of an actual swaybar upgrade! Will probably tackle this when I start working on the suspension!:

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1152714

Also, check out the pace/safety cars that they set-up (sorry if it's a repost). The cage set-up is pretty sweet!

http://www.awrracing.com/pages/services/pacecars/mspd6pace.html

Just thought I'd share. Enjoy! :D

[MAZOOM]

Direct Link (http://www.awrracing.com/store/product_info.php?products_id=398)

Is this the beginning of them offering sway bars???
I believe the end links are the same for other Mazda's, not sure though.

[Superstretch18]

^^^ Let's hope so! The front bar is probably out of the question because of the positioning (you might have to drop a cross-member to get at the stocker), but a rear upgrade would be interesting to say the least!

Thanks for the direct link too, BTW! :D

[astraelraen]

The CX7's factory swaybars are gigantic. I think it would be better to start with springs/coilovers than replacing the swaybars.

Good info though, especially the NASIOC forum page.

[Superstretch18]

The CX7's factory swaybars are gigantic. I think it would be better to start with springs/coilovers than replacing the swaybars.

Good info though, especially the NASIOC forum page.

Actually, the front bar is pretty thin, but again, not an easy upgrade due to the positioning. The rear is pretty beefy, but how stiff is it? Is it solid or hollow? I'm not sure...

Agreed though that springs and these endlinks are probably the best place to start! ;)

[MAZOOM]

An even beefier rear bar would get the car to oversteer more, there is mild, mild oversteer on the AWD models when you get really crazy but nothing fun like a rear driver.

[astraelraen]

I almost picked up those pedders lowering springs from Corksport for 243 when they had that 1 day sale back in Feb. But I needed more time to consider it.

[MAZOOM]

Please do, I want to get some opinions on them. Our Aussie board members say that they're not the best.
I'm considering it as well.

[astraelraen]

Please do, I want to get some opinions on them. Our Aussie board members say that they're not the best.
I'm considering it as well.

haha, thats good motivation.

[Raider]

Swaybars rock! I had to drop my cross member and subframe on my speed 3to install mine,but it was so well worth it. Would need the endlink upgrade on our cars,as the stocker most likely cannot handle the excess stress, and will snap.

[Superstretch18]

Yah, I was checking out the Pedder's too, but I still can't get over spending $500 (after installation) for a 1 1/2" drop. I'm really waiting for a company to do something in the 2-3" range, with an accompanying camber adjustment kit.

I had Roadmagnet pretty much sold on producing a kit, but couldn't find a 7 in Maryland and wound up not being able to make the trip myself. :mad: In any case, I'm just glad to see more performance products coming to market.

As a side note, anyone checkout the safety car & pace car that AWR built for Laguna Seca?

http://www.awrracing.com/pages/services/pacecars/mspd6pace.html

[astraelraen]

I've read install guides for the springs on a MS3, its got the basically the exact same suspension setup as the CX7. I think its probably doable if you have any mechanical knowledge, a buddy, and can rent a spring compressor. It really didn't look that hard.

That said, I doubt I would do it myself either.

Shadow1 lives in maryland I think?

[Superstretch18]

I have an inexplicable fear of doing anything involving the brakes myself. I've worked with others on their brakes more than once, but I can't bring myself to do my own cars. If I could do the suspension without pulling the rotors & calipers, that would be a different story! Everything else is free-game. ;)

Yeah, Shadow is in MD, but I know he's not interested in lowering his. Roadmagnet did say that they could put the tester back to stock, but I could never ask him to sacrifice his car for a week to get it done.

[astraelraen]

Back to springs, I don't think you have to mess with the brakes at all.
Here is an install of the Cobb springs for the MS3, the CX7 has the exact same suspension setup. So one could probably follow this guide exactly to replace the CX7 springs.

http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?t=123695729

[shadow1]

An even beefier rear bar would get the car to oversteer more, there is mild, mild oversteer on the AWD models when you get really crazy but nothing fun like a rear driver.

No way the CX7 oversteers unless it was on icy roads. On dry pavement, the front end will push when cornering hard. That is way the OEMs design most cars/SUVs. Safer to push than fishtail when at the limit. My own CX7 understeers when I push it to the limits of tire traction. With my new 20" tires, those limits are now higher but it still understeers.

[MAZOOM]

I've pushed the CX-7 into some hard wide right hand turns and the back pushed out, just a little.

I'm not the only one to experience this, with heavy throttle and hard turning the back will push out a little, not so much like RWD(fishtailing), just a little kick.
It's happened more than once, say whatever you want but I know what oversteer feels like.

[shadow1]

Spring installs are straightforward. The only real hassle factor is compressing the OEM springs to get them off. But I have air tools and a spring compressor, so it is not hard. Mazda even installed rear access panels to get to the rear struts. So you don't even have to tear apart the rear interior panels which is necessary in some cars (like my Evo). However, I am not a fan of lowering springs. Lowered springs require a higher spring rate to keep the vehicle from bottoming out. More spring rate requires more dampening which the OEM struts are not going to provide. So lowering springs on OEM struts = pogo stick ride. The correct way to lower is lower, stiffer springs AND struts with more dampening. IMO the best way to accomplish this is a complete coilover package. If my OEM suspension wears out, I would consider the Autoexe coilovers. However, I do not have any interest in stiffening my CX7's ride when I already have an Evo.

[shadow1]

I've pushed the CX-7 into some hard wide right hand turns and the back pushed out, just a little.

I'm not the only one to experience this, with heavy throttle and hard turning the back will push out a little, not so much like RWD(fishtailing), just a little kick.
It's happened more than once, say whatever you want but I know what oversteer feels like.

You likely were trail braking through a corner which unloads the rear tires and can induce some oversteer. However, that is a driving technique to overcome suspension geometry that is tuned for understeer. Try going through that same corner but maintain (or increase) throttle and see what happens. The CX7 will understeer. You will feel tug on the steering wheel as the front wheels try to push through the corner.

[MAZOOM]

No, I wasn't. My foot was on the throttle the entire time, there was traffic coming from behind so I had no time to stop.

Anyway the AWD will send torque to the rear tires during heavy acceleration and during hard cornering, and that can induce mild oversteer as well.

[shadow1]

The AWD doesn't send enough torque to the rear to induce oversteer. Our AWD system is FWD biased. Anyway, my point is not to be argumentative. You are entitled to your own opinion. IMHO I regularly take corners at a very spirited pace (I live in the country). My AWD CX7 absolutely, positively understeers. My Evo when it was stock also understeered at the limit. However, I have pretty much tuned that out - coilovers, rear sway bar set at its stiffest setting, rear strut bracing, and a very aggressive alignment (-2.5 degree front camber and -1.5 degree rear camber; stock is -1 and 0 respectively).

[MAZOOM]

Messing with the apex (like increasing torque to the rear wheels in the middle of) during cornering definitly could send the car into oversteer, DSC will quickly bring the car back down.