How To: CX-7 Oil/Filter Change, now with pictures...

[Raider]

here are 2 how to's. The first, a text.

Right below, a pictorial one, thanks to tdli...

1) Put the car on ramps or a lift. Let it cool off a little, as hot engines suck to work on.

2) Remove the big plastic shield underneath the engine. There is a plastic press clip to pry off-use a small flat bladed screwdriver to pop up and pull out towards the back of the shield, and a host of 10mm bolts

3)Using a 17mm socket, wrench, or other device, remove the oil drain plug, and let the oil drain out completely. You will need a big drain pan, 6 freakin quarts of oil!!

4) Once drained, reinstall drain plug.

5) Up on the bottom front of the engine, you will see the oil filter housing, with an allen socket keyed drain plug. Unscrew the plug, let the oil drain out.

6) Remove the base of the filter housing by unscrewing it. I had oil continue to drain out in spurts for every slight turn. It might be very tight, and require a lot of force to get it started, but it will eventually unscrew. I used a big adjustable oil filter wrench on my Speed3, I just was careful not to force it to much. It just needs help getting started.

7) Remove the oil filter. It is just the paper section. Match with new one for compliance. I received new rubber O Ring gaskets for the oil filter drain plug, and the filter housing base. Used a small flat blade to pry off and replace.

8) Wipe some a small amount of new oil on the O Rings for lubrication.

9) Install filter and housing base as you removed them.
I will suggest one additional important step to this very nice procedure. LUBRICATE BOTH ENDS OF THE FILTER CARTRIDGE BEFORE INSTALLING. This extra step reduces the twisting friction when the canister cap is tightened down. The result is less twisting force on the cartridge and no or much less distortion. I have found this actually works. Ed Hayes


10) Reinstall drain plug, and tighten to the specs on the housing, or just do what you know is right.

11) Go to the top of the engine, remove the 2 push clips with small flat-bladed driver, pull up and out on cover. Oil Filler is on the back left of the valve cover. Remove cap, fill engine up with 6 quarts of synthetic 5 w 30.

12) Reinstall oil filler cap, cover, and start motor. let run for a minute or so, and check underneath for oil leaks. Turn off engine.

13) If no leaks, pat yourself on the back. If leaks, have friend kick you in the seat of the pants, let them fix the leaks.

14) Reinstall shield as you removed it. Try not to grab and exhaust parts, they will not feet good.

15) Remove from ramps, drive for 3,000-5,000 and repeat.

Here is the pictorial version...

Remove the under panel by removing these 8 bolts:
http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t34/raiderms3/Oil%20Change%20CX7/1.jpg

Remove the drain plug on the oil pan. The drain plug is on the opposite side of the oil pan, facing the rear of the car. There is also a crush washer on the plug and I think you are suppose to change the washer, too, but I did not.

http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t34/raiderms3/Oil%20Change%20CX7/2.jpg

Once drained, reinstall drain plug back on. I don’t have the torque specs, but I made sure it was tight.
http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t34/raiderms3/Oil%20Change%20CX7/3.jpg

A bit more towards the front of the car is the oil filter housing, use a 6 mm hex socket (aka allen key) to remove the plug and let the oil drain out.

http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t34/raiderms3/Oil%20Change%20CX7/4.jpg
http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t34/raiderms3/Oil%20Change%20CX7/5.jpg

Remove the base of the filter housing. Mine was pretty tight so I had to use an oil filter socket. I tried the one from my IS300 (motor code 2JZ) and it was the same size. :)

http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t34/raiderms3/Oil%20Change%20CX7/6.jpg
http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t34/raiderms3/Oil%20Change%20CX7/7.jpg

Remove the oil filter base and old filter. As you can see, my old filter was crushed (not sure which brand it was).
I cleaned out the base and pried the old green o-ring off using a flat head and installed the new one. I also coated some oil on the o-ring and pure some oil into the oil filter base.

http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t34/raiderms3/Oil%20Change%20CX7/8.jpg
http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t34/raiderms3/Oil%20Change%20CX7/9.jpg

Install filter and housing base as you removed them. Again, since I had no torque specs to follow, I made sure it was installed back on tightly.

http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t34/raiderms3/Oil%20Change%20CX7/10.jpg

Pry off the old o-ring on the drain plug and replace it with the new one. I also coated this o-ring with some oil.
http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t34/raiderms3/Oil%20Change%20CX7/11.jpg
http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t34/raiderms3/Oil%20Change%20CX7/12.jpg

Level the car, fill the motor up with your preferred brand of oil. I dumped 5 quarts first (because 5 quarts came out) and the level on the dipstick showed that oil level was in between the min and max so I stopped there.

http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t34/raiderms3/Oil%20Change%20CX7/13.jpg
Reinstall oil filler cap and start motor. Let run for a minute or so and check underneath for leaks. If there are no leaks, turn off engine and reinstall the under panel. Be careful as some parts may be hot.

Remember to keep an eye on the oil level for the next few days and add some more oil if the level drops.

[smartmx5]

Great information! Thanks for the information. It is timely.
Alan

[Raider]

the one piece held in with the phillips screw does not need to be removed, it can come out with the entire bottom cover piece, BTW

[astraelraen]

Where does that little seal go?
I just changed mine myself and could not find that little seal anywhere to replace it... so I just disregarded the new one.

I thought maybe it went down in the middle of the cartridge... where that tube thing sticks up into the middle of the filter, but I couldn't see an old one there, and I couldn't get it to fit for the life of me.

[Raider]

There is the allen bolt in the center that you remove in the center bottom of the oil cartridge housing. that has that gasket on there.

[YOGI]

Great info - i`am about to change the oil next weekend ( for the first time ) ...Love my CX7 , thinking about cold air intake - ( CPE CAI ) bit pricey - any other brend for less $$$ ?

[Raider]

Well, Direct from CPE is about $270 for the intake, http://www.cp-e.com/2035.html.

I know AEM makes a short ram for a Mazda6 that will fit, but it is a lot louder. We have had the intake for nearly 9 months, and love it. I think it is well worth it.

For $30, you can slap on an ebay intake. But I have no idea how long the filter will last. In the past, they were junk in months, rusted.

My feeling is, I spent 30 grand on the car with a very well engineered, turbocharged engine. With the amount of time spent to engineer the CPE intake to not throw CEL's, or cause other problems with performance and mileage, I am very happy I saved up for the intake. We feel it is part fo the reason we get nearly 25 MPG.

[erhayes]

The little seal/O-ring is used on the Allen screw at the bottom of the filter housing. You remove the screw to drain the oil from the housing before removing the cartridge.

[atthehop]

Looks like no one replied to your question. The little o-ring goes on the oil filter drain plug. I DIY 5 vehicles and now that I have 2 Mazda's with under car covers that have to be removed to access the underside of the engine I invested in a battery operated 3/8" ratchet and it makes removing and reinstalling the numerous shield bolts a snap.

[Raider]

The answer is right above your post?:confused:

[CX-7ROCKS]

this seems like a waste of time. 6 quarts of oil will cost you around 15 plus the filters are between 7 and 8 dollars. that's $22 or $23 for a conventional oil change and alot of messy work. i can get my dealer to do it for $29 and i get a oem filter, quality oil and a record of service. my hands stay clean and i don't have worry about disposing of the old oil.

[mikomi]

this seems like a waste of time. 6 quarts of oil will cost you around 15 plus the filters are between 7 and 8 dollars. that's $22 or $23 for a conventional oil change and alot of messy work. i can get my dealer to do it for $29 and i get a oem filter, quality oil and a record of service. my hands stay clean and i don't have worry about disposing of the old oil.

Like raider said, you have your choice made.

No offence, but some people like doing these DIY things, not necessarily to save money, but there can be enjoyment to be had. I like doing my oil changes, sure it gets messy with disposal and stuff, but it's something I can deal with. It only takes 20min to do it anyway if you are inclined to do so.

Besides, asking the dealer to do a synthetic oil change? $100+. I'd rather do it myself, still costs me $70, but I like the visceral feeling of actually getting something done.

[erhayes]

I like doing my own oil changes because, it gives me the opportunity to inspect for any leaks or other damage. In addition; I need to drive 30 minutes to the dealer and it takes the dealer ~ 2 hours (drop off to pick up) to do the job, get the paper work signed etc. So I have spent 3 hours minimum or ~1/2 day of my time. I will be doing my oil changes until I can't turn the wrench but, to each his own. I do like the idea of a dealer service record, especially during the warranty period. Ed

[CX-7ROCKS]

i guess everyone has there own set of circumstances. my feeling is just that 6 quarts of oil is alot to replace and the filter not being in a removable casing that you can throw away is a pain.

i didn't even mention that every 5 fifth oil change is free and my vehicle gets washed and waxed for every 2 paid oil changes. I don't have to wait, they have a dedicated quick service bay for oil changes. My dealer is all about service.

My dealer will discount the oil change if i bring in my own oil, ie. synthetic.

[mikomi]

i guess everyone has there own set of circumstances. my feeling is just that 6 quarts of oil is alot to replace and the filter not being in a removable casing that you can throw away is a pain.

i didn't even mention that every 5 fifth oil change is free and my vehicle gets washed and waxed for every 2 paid oil changes. I don't have to wait, they have a dedicated quick service bay for oil changes. My dealer is all about service.

My dealer will discount the oil change if i bring in my own oil, ie. synthetic.

If I had the service you were getting I would be happy to let the dealer do the car.. almost... because I also like waxing my car myself... :D

[Raider]

Yup, it is all preference. I have seen stories of double-filled engines, oil filters not put on all the way, or not at all, drain plugs stripped out and JB Welded on, and worse, from people like Jiffy Lube, and some dealers. My Mazdaspeed Dealer is 160+ miles away. So I do it myself so I am ensured it is done right.

[CX-7ROCKS]

Yup, it is all preference. I have seen stories of double-filled engines, oil filters not put on all the way, or not at all, drain plugs stripped out and JB Welded on, and worse, from people like Jiffy Lube, and some dealers. My Mazdaspeed Dealer is 160+ miles away. So I do it myself so I am ensured it is done right.

stories? i sold fords for 3 years. i have seen it first hand. i delivered a new ford aspire that had no oil in it. customer brought it back saying it kept cutting off and then just died. dealer replaced motor. oil caps left off, spewing oil all up inside the engine bay. i know it happens, but i check my vehicle over after its been serviced. i would never go to jiffy lube places, they are only in business to rip people off.

[Honey]

We did my first oil change this weekend. I swear if it wasn't for this post I would have taken my engine apart looking for that darn oil filter. Next time: Read forums first. :mad:

[Raider]

Glad it helped!!

[Raider]

Oh, if you guys want an oil filter, like a spin-on unit, here you go!
http://siteground207.com/~protegeg/product_info.php?cPath=281_160_256&products_id=1210

[bigpav7]

The photos on the first page dont seem to be working... Is it just me?:confused::confused::confused:

[MAZOOM]

Non-Pictorial means the OP did not include pictures for your viewing pleasure.

[Raider]

I will have to check when I get home. My work blocks photo hosting sites.

[Raider]

But someone after me posted pics.

Non-Pictorial means the OP did not include pictures for your viewing pleasure.

[Raider]

Well, the pics are gone.The user was last on a year ago. Bummer. I removed the pic links. If anyone changes their oil and wants to post pics, let me know!

[bigpav7]

yeah, it would be really helpful if someone could take some pics while changing their oil. The oil change on the CX7 sounds a bit more involved than my 91 eclipse. Just want to make sure I dont miss anything.

[bigpav7]

did the oil change over the weekend. Wasn't too bad. THe weird thing was that I could only put 5.2 quarts of oil in. That brought the oil level right up to the top line. Go figure...

[Raider]

Odd. I would check it after you drive it for a bit. I put in the full 6, run it, then double check,and it is fine.

Owners Manual has 6 quarts with filter replacement. 5.6 without. I would double check it. If anything ,put the 6 quarts in and go tot he dealer, as your dipstick might be off.

Yes there is leftover oil still int he engine, but doubtful there would be nearly a quart left.

[bigpav7]

yeah, that's what I originally thought, that there was still oil left over in the engine. But I drained it for over 30 minutes - it was barely dripping by the time I put the drain plug back in. So that shouldn't be it. I started and ran the car before checking the level for the second time - the level was right on the money.

Come to think of it, I placed the ramps outside the garage before driving up on them. My driveway is on an incline, so the front of the car ended up being just slighly higher than the back - not as much as if I had done it on a flat surface. Could the angle have affected how much oil remained in the engine? I mean when you put the car on a lift - it's absolutely straight, so that shouldn't be a problem.

I dont know, I'll check it again tonight, I guess.

[Raider]

That is indeed possibly why.

[sixsix]

I just did mine. Pretty straightfoward, but the directions don't mention the part where you're supposed to spill about a quart of oil on your drive way because the oil comming out of the engine totally missed the pan. I'm not a big fan of that plastic sheild either. Oh and the stock oil filter was crushed when I took it out. Must be a tad bit to long for the housing. And I just put the 6 qts in, let it run for a min then checked it and it was right above the full line. Same spot it was before I changed it. And that stock oil was pretty nasty after 5300mi. Hopefully it likes the mobile one i put in it.

[Raider]

There are known issues with Purolator others crushing. Wix and OEM do not.

[sixsix]

There are known issues with Purolator others crushing. Wix and OEM do not.



This was the oem filter I was talking about. The one I just put in was a STP and it looked to be exactly like the oem filer(size wise)

[bigpav7]

so check this out:

I checked the oil again tonight after coming home - the car was still hot from driving for about 30 miles. the oil level was about half an inch above the full mark, right over the word "max". imagine my surprise. I guess oil expands big time once it warms up (I only ran the car for about 5 minutes when I did the change last night, i guess it didn't get a chance to fully warm up). So I got the car back up on the ramps and drained about .3-.4 of a quart.. took it down and checked again - the oil was slightly below the full line (tiny hole).

Now this means that either my car had so much old oil remaining in it during the change that less than 5 quarts of new oil fit in (can't imagine how that's possible) or 6 quarts of oil (with the car fully warmed up) are supposed to place the oil level way over the "full" line....

Can someone who hasn't done the first oil change yet check their oil with the car fully warmed up and see where the oil level is?

Now I'm all concerned too that I drove the car for about 55 miles with the oil overfilled. It seems to be running alright though...

I'm thinking of just taking her to the dealer on saturday and letting them change the oil. At least I can check the oil right after and see where it's supposed to be.

I'm thoroughly confused........

[Raider]

Odd.

[sixsix]

I checked mine at 3k to make sure I didn't need to add any oil and it was just a hair above the half way mark...the car was cold. Now before I changed it today it was just above full and it was hot this time. But if the book calls for 6qts, then put the 6qts in it. I don't even check the dipstick on my truck when I change the oil any more, put 6qts in it and let'er go.

[chris41]

My wife's CX-7 is slightly overfilled when checked after sitting overnight. I was upset until reading here and elsewhere that a small amount of oil can make big changes on the dipstick. For example, it seems that this car takes 5.5 to 5.7 quarts to fill and using 6 quarts will show "1 inch" above the full mark on the dipstick. I used quotations cause this is what others have said after filling with 6 quarts. I'm reading just above the full mark, so I'm not panicking anymore.

I'm going to remind my oil change facility to fill with 5.5 quarts. From reading the forum, it seems that folks have overfilling issues at the dealer too. Honestly, I don't trust my dealer to change the PIA filter everytime (cause I'm not there to see-had other issues with our Tribute). I know my filter is being changed because you can feel them working underneath. The facility I visit makes me start the car and idle for 5 min before sending me on my way, cause they've had issues with leaking filters throughout the franchises. The 08 CX-7 specs aren't listed in their computer log yet, so I will keep them on their toes.

[Raider]

The engine specs are the same. I would trust the owners manual's requirement of 6 quarts over a dipstick. But that is just me. If you run into an oil starvation situation, the new motor is $10,000 through Mazda.

[bigpav7]

The engine specs are the same. I would trust the owners manual's requirement of 6 quarts over a dipstick. But that is just me. If you run into an oil starvation situation, the new motor is $10,000 through Mazda.

yeah, that's a good point too.

From reading on this site and mycx7.com, it looks like some dealers actually drain the oil when people come back after realizing that their cars had been "overfilled". Sounds to me like this is a big enough issue to contact Mazda about and at least get some direction. Than again, they would never admit that the dispstick is off or that the oil capacity is not exaclty 6 quarts. Either way, I'll send them an email...

[bcwyatt26]

I'm a little concerned about this issue, having had the dealer do the first service and hearing that there is some inconsistency with the dipstick or the oil capacity of the engine. I checked my oil and it was above the full line by a bit. The engine was still pretty warm, maybe that affected it some, but it shouldn't much if at all, should it? I guess I'll just keep an eye on it and maybe ask the dealer about it.

[Raider]

Yeah, I would not be too concerned. 6 quarts and you will be fine.

[erhayes]

My factory manual says that the original factory fill is something like 7+ quarts of oil. They also state that the refill will nominally be approximately 6 quarts. That means that ~ 1 + quarts stays in the engines, oil cooler, lines, galleys and cyl. heads. The oil level in my Subaru's changed ~ 1/2 inch when going from cold to hot and there were two full levels, one line for cold and a notch for hot. My Particular CX7 is on the full line after adding 5.5-5.7 quarts, but, I would have no issues putting in 6 even if it were 1/2 inch over the full line. I think the variability in the fill amount depends on whether the cooler line and such drain or not. Just my observations and what I read in the factory manual. Ed

[bigpav7]

My factory manual says that the original factory fill is something like 7+ quarts of oil. They also state that the refill will nominally be approximately 6 quarts. That means that ~ 1 + quarts stays in the engines, oil cooler, lines, galleys and cyl. heads. The oil level in my Subaru's changed ~ 1/2 inch when going from cold to hot and there were two full levels, one line for cold and a notch for hot. My Particular CX7 is on the full line after adding 5.5-5.7 quarts, but, I would have no issues putting in 6 even if it were 1/2 inch over the full line. I think the variability in the fill amount depends on whether the cooler line and such drain or not. Just my observations and what I read in the factory manual. Ed

My only thing is that the manual states that the car must be fully warmed up when checking the oil level - so I am on the full line after putting about 5 quarts in. oh well.

[LOSCOZ]

FYI take the few minutes, stop into an Auto Zone & pick up an "B" type oil filter wrench cap for a whopping $4.99 (as of 5/4/08) to remove the bottom of the oil filter housing ... after screwing with it using strap wrenches, by-hand, and a few other creative items it wasn't worth the banged up knuckles and wasted 1 hour of time for my oil change to be completed.

I also am now fully synthetic and using 'Royal Purple' 5w30 at 38k miles.

Also side note, this oil cap wrench we bought will also work on my hubbys Speed3 for his oil change too - on any of the Mazda 2.3 ltr disi engines.
:)

[pyrimidine]

Dear forum members,

signed the 24 months lease for Mazda CX 7 sports edition and will be taking the delivery very soon once my desired black on black color is available. This is a great forum with some great posts. cheers...thanks

I was always wondering that how do you lift your car at home while changing and draining engine oil from car???????????? I mean at auto mechanic shop they have those special platform which can be raised overhead but what about if doing it by yourself???

[erhayes]

With difficulty you don't really need to raise the vehicle. I however drive onto some low ramps for additional Clarence.

[Raider]

I just changed the oil yesterday. Used ramps. Best thing ever, air tools with a 3/8 drive mini air ratchet from Mac tools. Took 30 seconds and the bottom plastic came off. Made it go so quick!!

[erhayes]

I use a 1/4 drive air ratchet for the under cover only. Hand wrenches for the engine stuff. A 19 MM ratchet wrench from sears for the crankcase drain bolt. I forgot the allen wrench size. Use a cup type oil filter wrench ONLT to remove the filter cover.

[Raider]

Odd,ours is a 17mm drain plug. And I used hand tools fort hat,and the filter.

[MAZOOM]

Is STP an ok filter? I had someone pick one oil change stuff and they said Pure one wasn't available.

[mikomi]

Isn't STP's filters made by Wix ?

[MAZOOM]

I dunno, but boy did the oil smell like FUEL! I'm getting a UOA, this was a long interval (24K to 30900)on 5W-40 full synthetic, and a lot of short spirited city driving, and some nice highway miles too.

God.. Mazda will be doing the next, this just isn't my thing, and at 30 dollars a change @ Mazda it doesn't have to be, I'm just worried about how my new dealer will respond to my mods.

Switched over to PP platinum 5W-30 and a STP filter just because I was in need of an oil change now.

[Minas George]

Just passed 5.000km and took my 7 to the dealer for the first scheduled oil change. I specifically asked them not to overfill and to give me the remain back. They did gave it back so I rest assured that they did their job properly.

4 days now, I decided to check the level. The car was idle for 1 day so everything was drained. It showed well above max. So started the car for 5 min and let it cool for another 15 min. Level is at the A letter of MAX.

Paid 6 liters of oil...car takes 5.7, and the leftover they gave me is 0.7l ...
Probably they filled with 6l and gave me a left over from another car..

Is the level at A ok or should I have it sucked up?

[CX-7ROCKS]

I dunno, but boy did the oil smell like FUEL! I'm getting a UOA, this was a long interval (24K to 30900)on 5W-40 full synthetic, and a lot of short spirited city driving, and some nice highway miles too.

God.. Mazda will be doing the next, this just isn't my thing, and at 30 dollars a change @ Mazda it doesn't have to be, I'm just worried about how my new dealer will respond to my mods.

Switched over to PP platinum 5W-30 and a STP filter just because I was in need of an oil change now.

totally agree. $30 and worry free. something goes wrong. they are liable.

[bigpav7]

Just passed 5.000km and took my 7 to the dealer for the first scheduled oil change. I specifically asked them not to overfill and to give me the remain back. They did gave it back so I rest assured that they did their job properly.

4 days now, I decided to check the level. The car was idle for 1 day so everything was drained. It showed well above max. So started the car for 5 min and let it cool for another 15 min. Level is at the A letter of MAX.

Paid 6 liters of oil...car takes 5.7, and the leftover they gave me is 0.7l ...
Probably they filled with 6l and gave me a left over from another car..

Is the level at A ok or should I have it sucked up?

Running the car for 5 minutes is probably not enough to have the oil fully warm up, so the level on your dipstick will probably be even higher once you drive the car for a while and let it warm up properly.

As far as draining the excess out, you'll probably get different opinions on this. I chose to drain the excess out of my car and bring the level down to the full line after discovering that I had overfilled it. Based on this thread, some dealers have done the same for people who came back and told them that the oil had been overfilled. Other people choose to put the 6 quarts in and not worry about the oil level on the dipstick.

I would suggest going back to the dealer and bringing this to their attention. Let them either drain the excess oil out or tell you that it's not a problem that it's overfilled.

[MAZOOM]

Hmm so I added in six quarts and It's not clear on where it is, it looks like it's over max.
Should I drain?

[bigpav7]

Hmm so I added in six quarts and It's not clear on where it is, it looks like it's over max.
Should I drain?

this has been debated quite a bit in this thread and several others. I really think it's up to you. I chose to drain mine out and bring the oil level down to full. Others insist that the entire 6 quarts have to go in, regardless of where that places the oil level on the dipstick. I guess you make the call! :D

One piece of advice though, make sure the car is fully warmed up before you check it - like drive it for 15 minutes or so. Oil expands big time when it gets hot - had to find that out the hard way!!!

[MAZOOM]

Oh yeah I checked it after I got done driving around so it was an accurate test according to the directions.

[mikomi]

6 quarts came out, 6 quarts go in.

[MustangSix]

I did the first oil change this weekend. Holy crap! the last car I had that was this messy to do an oil change on was a 59 Jaguar!:mad:

The engineer that decided to use a cartridge instead of a spin on canister should be taken out and flogged! I just can't seem to understand the backward leap in technology used here!

And Mazda thoughtfully designed the undertray to allow you to drain the oil, but you have to remove it completely to get to the filter? Another access door would have been nice. :mad:

[Alpha Wolf]

I did not see this thread posted, so I am including mine. Delete as needed.

1) Put the car on ramps or a lift. Let it cool off a little, as hot engines suck to work on.

2) Remove the big plastic shield underneath the engine. There is a plastic press clip to pry off-use a small flat bladed screwdriver to pop up and pull out towards the back of the shield, and a host of 10mm bolts

3)Using a 17mm socket, wrench, or other device, remove the oil drain plug, and let the oil drain out completely. You will need a big drain pan, 6 freakin quarts of oil!!

4) Once drained, reinstall drain plug.

5) Up on the bottom front of the engine, you will see the oil filter housing, with an allen socket keyed drain plug. Unscrew the plug, let the oil drain out.

6) Remove the base of the filter housing by unscrewing it. I had oil continue to drain out in spurts for every slight turn. It might be very tight, and require a lot of force to get it started, but it will eventually unscrew. I used a big adjustable oil filter wrench on my Speed3, I just was careful not to force it to much. It just needs help getting started.

7) Remove the oil filter. It is just the paper section. Match with new one for compliance. I received new rubber O Ring gaskets for the oil filter drain plug, and the filter housing base. Used a small flat blade to pry off and replace.

8) Wipe some a small amount of new oil on the O Rings for lubrication.

9) Install filter and housing base as you removed them.

10) Reinstall drain plug, and tighten to the specs on the housing, or just do what you know is right.

11) Go to the top of the engine, remove the 2 push clips with small flat-bladed driver, pull up and out on cover. Oil Filler is on the back left of the valve cover. Remove cap, fill engine up with 6 quarts of synthetic 5 w 30.

12) Reinstall oil filler cap, cover, and start motor. let run for a minute or so, and check underneath for oil leaks. Turn off engine.

13) If no leaks, pat yourself on the back. If leaks, have friend kick you in the seat of the pants, let them fix the leaks.

14) Reinstall shield as you removed it. Try not to grab and exhaust parts, they will not feet good.

15) Remove from ramps, drive for 3,000-5,000 and repeat.


You forgot to mention that you must have your oil hot when you do this. Running the engine will pick up particles and help you get them out of your engine without contaminating your nice clean new oil and it will make the oil flow out much faster.

;)

[Alpha Wolf]

Tip is to take a large zip lock and place it around filter housing as you unscrew it as this will catch the leakage that comes when you do this. You can do this without draining first ie like a spin on filter does should you desire.

[CX-7ROCKS]

I did the first oil change this weekend. Holy crap! the last car I had that was this messy to do an oil change on was a 59 Jaguar!:mad:

The engineer that decided to use a cartridge instead of a spin on canister should be taken out and flogged! I just can't seem to understand the backward leap in technology used here!

And Mazda thoughtfully designed the undertray to allow you to drain the oil, but you have to remove it completely to get to the filter? Another access door would have been nice. :mad:

I've never done it, but from all i have heard i don't ever want to attempt it. i have better things to do. luckily my dealer has great incentives for me to take in for that.:D

[Raider]

It is really not that hard. The engine, when cold, warms up just enough while back it out front, then putting it up on ramps. Oil is plenty hot coming out, I can verify that. Having 2 cars with this engine, I am comfortable in saying I can have it done in 20 minutes or so once up on ramps. Most of the time is spent watching oil drizzle out the bottom of the oil pan while drinking a Gatorade.

One modification you can do is an easy one. Spin-on oil filter conversion. Mazda3online sells them. Specify for Speed 3, and you are set. $60 is not bad, either.
http://siteground207.com/~protegeg/product_info.php?cPath=160_256&products_id=1210

I got one for my speed 3. Next oil change, our CX-7 gets the spin-on treatment.

[tdli]

do we still have these pictures? if not, i can take some tonight because i will be changing my oil.

just let me know.

[Raider]

The images got removed by the poster. If you can, please take and post em!

[tdli]

^i didnt get to it last night, but will be doing this tonight and taking pictures.

[tdli]

Thanks to Raider for the originally instructions. I took some of his wording and mixed it with my own and added the pictures we took from last night. Feel free to make any changes.

*See pictures on the first page.

[Raider]

Thanks Brandon!

I went ahead and put your post back in in post #1 as well, so we have 2 how-to's.

[tdli]

Eric, not a problem. Glad I can help out.

[erhayes]

I will suggest one additional important step to this very nice procedure. LUBRICATE BOTH ENDS OF THE FILTER CARTRIDGE BEFORE INSTALLING. This extra step reduces the twisting friction when the canister cap is tightened down. The result is less twisting force on the cartridge and no or much less distortion. I have found this actually works. Ed Hayes

[Raider]

Good tip, I will add it!!