K&N air filter

[AWDGalaxy]

Does anyone here know if you can get a k&n filter for the cx-7...... or even a cold or warm air intake

[hoesny]

I heard that you can fit mazda speed 6 filter into cx7, ...the drop in filter not cold air intake..

[AWDGalaxy]

Awesome thanks for the info........... I will check into it and let everyone know what I find out....!

[Cookim6]

I've tried searching for a drop in filter for the Mazdaspeed 6 with no avail. I do know CPE sells a cold air intake for the CX7 but for a price: $269

[WEZOOMN]

The K&N Filter # is: 33-2279.
It is the same one for the 2006 2.3 and 2002-2006 3.0 engines.
BTW the K&N Oil Filter # is: HP-2010, in case you wondered.
-JD;)

[ottoblotto]

wezoomn, have you tried the airfilter pn? if you say its good, im on my way to autozone to get one... >:)

[WEZOOMN]

wezoomn, have you tried the airfilter pn? if you say its good, im on my way to autozone to get one... >:)
I identified the CX-7 stock filter number and crossreferenced it and looked up the result on the K&N Site.
I have bought one on ebay for $35.95+$6.95 S&H for a total of $42.90 and it's on the way.
My local Auto Zone quoted $56.95 and it had to be ordered. I had to wait either way.
I have had K&N filters in over a dozen of the vehicles I have owner including A motorcycle and a ski boat. I THINK it is worth the bucks. I even have one on one of my RC 1/10th scale 4WD NITRO pavement cars.
-JD

[ottoblotto]

ditto. from my volkswagon bus to my harley to my tribute and soon to be to my cx7, always ran a k&n. ive always liked the sound. and even if you couldnt prove the performance factor, 35-50ish bux for a lifetime airfilter... not bad. can you keep us informed when you get it and if all goes well? thnx

[WEZOOMN]

OB-
Off topic just a second...........Are you a Teacher or a Soldier or Both??:cool:

[ottoblotto]

was a soldier and as a father always a teacher. ;)

[WEZOOMN]

was a soldier and as a father always a teacher. ;)
EXCELLENT!!
For me.........Teacher (as you+Military Instructor) & Military (33 years)
Keep Smilin':D
-JD

[WEZOOMN]

Received the K&N today and it is installed. Tomorrow for my first Oil Change and a little road test.
TTFN;)

[importking]

does anyone alternative mods for the cx7 to hear the turbo spool up, has anyone tested the bov without the recirculation hose?

[AWDGalaxy]

Thanks for all of the info guys...... I have went out and bought a K&N filter and love it so far!!!!!

[offset_98]

Thanks for all of the info guys...... I have went out and bought a K&N filter and love it so far!!!!!

How's the sound? The seat of the pants feel? More info!! :p

[AWDGalaxy]

Sound is almost identical. However I have gained on average about 1-2 MPG more , also I think that the engine has slighly better power since the turbo can pull air easier to it.

[ottoblotto]

my question is: the pn that im seeing posted is for a ms6 with a 6cyl. 33-2279. as far as i can see the 33-2278 is for the 2.3l 4 cyl fi. anyone verify this??? (wezoomn???) im trying to order one online. at autozone 55+ and have to order also...

heres what i found:

33-2278 Product Specifications

Product Style: Panel Air Filter
Height: 0.875 in (22 mm)
Outside Length: 12.563 in (319 mm)
Outside Width: 6.875 in (175 mm)
Filter Re-Oiling Amount: 1.08 oz (32 ml)
Weight: 1 lb (0.4 kg)
Product Box Length: 13.5 in (343 mm)
Product Box Width: 7.75 in (197 mm)
Product Box Height: 1.75 in (44 mm)

K&N Applications for 33-2278




2006 MAZDA MPV 3.0L V6 F/I - All
2005 MAZDA 6 1.8L L4 F/I - All
2005 MAZDA 6 2.0L L4 DSL - All
2005 MAZDA 6 2.0L L4 F/I - All
2005 MAZDA 6 2.3L L4 F/I - All
2005 MAZDA MPV 3.0L V6 F/I - All
2004 MAZDA 6 1.8L L4 F/I - All
2004 MAZDA 6 2.0L L4 DSL - All
2004 MAZDA 6 2.0L L4 F/I - All
2004 MAZDA 6 2.3L L4 F/I - All
2004 MAZDA MPV 3.0L V6 F/I - All
2003 MAZDA 6 1.8L L4 F/I - All
2003 MAZDA 6 2.0L L4 DSL - All
2003 MAZDA 6 2.0L L4 F/I - All
2003 MAZDA 6 2.3L L4 F/I - All
2002 MAZDA 6 1.8L L4 F/I - All
2002 MAZDA 6 2.0L L4 DSL - All
2002 MAZDA 6 2.0L L4 F/I - All

33-2279 Product Specifications
Product Style: Panel Air Filter
Height: 0.938 in (24 mm)
Outside Length: 12.188 in (310 mm)
Outside Width: 6.875 in (175 mm)
Filter Re-Oiling Amount: 0.99 oz (29 ml)
Weight: 1 lb (0.4 kg)
Product Box Length: 13.5 in (343 mm)
Product Box Width: 7.75 in (197 mm)
Product Box Height: 1.75 in (44 mm)

K&N Applications for 33-2279



2005 MAZDA 6 3.0L V6 F/I - All
2004 MAZDA 6 3.0L V6 F/I - All
2003 MAZDA 6 3.0L V6 F/I - All
2002 MAZDA 6 3.0L V6 F/I - All

from site that sells both. thankfully they are very specific as to dimensions and such and you can see in the bold that they are of diff sizes... so which one is it? im guessing the 33-2278 right? help! i want my K&N!

[ottoblotto]

awd, where did you get the filter?

[AWDGalaxy]

You are going to want the 33-2279 filter size. I got mine from an advanced auto and I think it was about 50-55 dollars.

[WEZOOMN]

YES, that IS the correct number. In my original post I noted that it fit the 6 cylinder airbox, as well.
I have one in my CX-7!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[ottoblotto]

sounds like a winner... ill be going to advanced this weekend. thanks all!

[VENAM1]

This seems like a good place for a n00b like me to start in terms of eeking out performance gains on my new CX-7...

I just wanted to know more about what gains I'd actually be looking at in swapping out the OEM air filter with the K&N one...?

Should the oil filter go too?

Thanks!

[Copper Red CX]

I have seen studies that the flow rate of the K&N drop in filters are not really all that much better than stock. They generally have been shown to not add horse power. However, they do let more small particles enter your engine which may decrease its longevity. The risks aren't worth the rewards if you ask me. It is a waste of money.

[ottoblotto]

well so far i have had the K&N for about two weeks. i can say i dont see a diff in gas mileage and the sound hasnt really changed nor has the performance. i think its psychological that the performance increases because after the instal, we tend to have a lead foot for awhile. my wife is still giving me crap about my accelerating... anyways, im not the primary driver, but like i said im not seeing much diff... ill post more later. im still a k&n fan, just didnt seem to do much for the cx-7. imho.

[drivenhard]

Installed a k&n drop in the other day. Definitely noted an improvement right away. OEM filter had 4500 miles on it. Road salt dust can really plug things up. Where I noticed the greatest improvement was full throttle. Checked the latest filter tests and found K&N filters have equal efficiency to OEM ... 99% or better. Pleased with the additional thrill per dollar- $31 delivered from Amazon.

[rexercx7]

Completely at sea as far as being "under the hood" of my CX-7 goes, can anybody point me to a guide to replacing the air filter with the K&N Filter #33-2279, which I just ordered from Amazon.com for $33.89 shipped, no tax.

Did I order the right part? I hope so...I hate returning things. I haven't been under the hood of my CX-7 to check anything except the freakin' engine oil dipstick level so far.

I have no idea how to R&R the OEM air filter with the #33-2279 K&N unit!

I know, don't swim where the sharks are and all that, but I figured this would be a piece of cake...until I opened the hood and looked in and just saw a million air hoses, electronic clip-ons, wires, computer hookups...I did recognize the battery (yeah for me!), so there's a start.;)

Anybody care to help me out and describe the steps to take to replace the OEM air filter with the K&N unit? Any help will be greatly appreciated, and I have about 4-5 days before it gets here besides. I opted for the "free shipping" which usually turns out to be UPS Ground, 3-5 days from order date delivery...or faster.

Once I opted for the free shipping and got it next day!

I had no problem finding the part at Amazon.com, since it was spelled out here in these fine web pages. Thanks ahead of time!:D

Kindest regards,
rexercx7:cool:

[fat tony]

If you know where the battery is your really warm... Standing in front of the car the air box is straight in front of the battery. Between you and the battery. To the right is the main fuse box. I think its in the manual also.

I had one of these in my last car and you are supposed to buy the maintenance kit to clean them up every X miles or years it was to much like hard work for me after a while and I ended up removing it. My car was supercharged and they are really bad for these because the fine particles would wear the seals in the G lader. :mad:

[rexercx7]

If you know where the battery is your really warm... Standing in front of the car the air box is straight in front of the battery. Between you and the battery. To the right is the main fuse box. I think its in the manual also.

I had one of these in my last car and you are supposed to buy the maintenance kit to clean them up every X miles or years it was to much like hard work for me after a while and I ended up removing it. My car was supercharged and they are really bad for these because the fine particles would wear the seals in the G lader. :mad:

Yours is the 2nd post that mentions the "fine particles" that this air filter system permits entry of. Holy smoke, if it is that much of a problem perhaps I should just return it, or like they told me today when I called Amazon.com, just "refuse delivery of it and it will come back to us, and we'll credit your credit card 100% of the fees. There will be no re-stocking charge or other charges if you simply refuse delivery."

I thought this K&N Filter was a Good Thing!...not a bad one, or I wouldn't have even bothered with ordering it. So many folks speak highly of the K&N Filters and how they work forever, with a 1,000,000 mile guarantee and everything.

Am I making a mistake by even installing this filter on a highly tuned turbo motor like our DISI 2.3L Mazda CX-7 engine?:confused:

The press on these filters is so good overall, heavily weighted toward the positive vs. the negative, that I wonder if those here who have commented about the "fine particles" the filter permits entry of are not just blowing smoke rings? I'd like a source of some real statistical data, or test data, about the K&N Filter system and what some objective testing/analysis has to say about it if possible, if anyone knows of such a source and can attribute their remarks about the K&N Filters.

I'm not trying to create a controversy or anything like that, I'd simply like to have some real, honest background on the K&N Filters, and why they're good, or bad, that's all?

Is that too much to hope for, or ask for?:)

Kindest regards,
rexercx7:cool:

[shadow1]

K & N filters work fine. I've used them in all of my cars. Will they filter as well as the OEM paper filter. Probably not, but they are at least 98-99% as good. Plus they do not clog up like paper filters do. K & N filters do flow better but in many vehicles the air restriction is not in the filter, the restriction is in the intake plumbing. So a replacement filter alone does little (depends on the car of course). That's why full intake kits can improve performance. But again it depends on the vehicle. The CX7 for one, definitely benefits from an aftermarket intake.

[WEZOOMN]

I have had (and still have) one in everything except my John Deere LX280 Lawn Tractor (they don't make one for it) and HAVE NEVER HAD ANY PROBLEM!!!
Were are talking Cars, Trucks, Motorcycles, Ski Boat and even one on one of my NITRO R/C Cars!!!!!!!
The ONLY time I ever heard of ANY problem was when a person (not me) cleaned his filter (after 55,000 miles) and put too much oil on the filter and it contaminated his MASS AIR FLOW SENSOR!!! Carb Cleaner, had the CEL reset and he was back in business.
He didn't read the instructions. It wasn't the filters fault!
Yes and a couple of the cars had Turbo-Charged engines.......
If fact three did....
a 1986 Starion ESI-R, a 2000 Turbo Beetle and now my CX-7!!!
I have heard and felt the difference and noted better fuel economy!!
My GMC Sierra Denali has one and my Crossfire has two!!
That's my 2 cents!!:D

[fat tony]

The question I asked myself was how long would I want to keep the car. If you are going to change the oil frequently any particles that do get in most of them will get flushed and possibly caught in the filter. But if you are that concerned with the health of your engine that you change the oil and spend money on the maintenance why would you do something that could have a negative effect on your engine? If I recall correctly the K&N filter has to be serviced every year so it doesn’t get clogged. Yes just like your stock filter it will get clogged after a period of time. If you are going to tune your motor up the extra air will help as stated before.

The K&N filter I had you noticed the difference when you nailed it at high rev's more of a loud suction noise and it did seem to losen up the engine. You’re not going to get the same effect as other cone filters in terms of the sound because it’s still in the stock enclosure. Having previously owned one I'm not getting another. This is just my opinion and I cant say it is bad the same or good for your motor. My last car was fine i put 50k on it. I think any issues will be a long time away and you would need to stip the engine to prove it :confused:

[rexercx7]

Two positive posts *for* the K&N Filters were great, so thanks to both of you for taking the time to answer my query. I've since done a bit of online reading about the filters, how they're constructed, and why people use them and it seems like they are just something nice to do for your automobile, no matter what make or model it happens to be. With the available (potential) performance built into every CX-7 2.3L DISI turbo motor, I understand shadow1's comments very much, as there's a vast reservoir of power and torque in our SUV's engines that remains untapped with its OEM configuration. And I can also appreciate WEZOOMN's long-standing experience with the product, spanning more than 20 years apparently in all kinds of applications, so his "2cents" are also most appreciated.

I'm going to go ahead and use the K&N Filter that I ordered and not worry about it, as it seems to be an excellent, high-quality product that has quite a following, and a very high reputation in the car industry. I'm not expecting to feel a performance boost, or even get better fuel mileage out of using the K&N Filter, but if either of the above happens it will be a pleasant surprise.

As an aside, I have owned several high performance automobiles in the past, including two BMW M5's (an original 1988 USA version and its replacement, a 1992) and there were dozens of after-market performance enhancing possibilities for both of those vehicles, none of which I indulged in though I was heavily tempted to on many occasions, both inside and outside of my job with BMW and by association with the BMWCCA. The CX-7 motor is a jewel of a setup, with its many heavy-duty and performance-oriented internal parts, and it begs to be "turned loose" so that some of its untapped horsepower potential could be realized. Little things like the forged, counterbalanced crankshaft and rods, the 6-quart OEM oiling system with oil pan baffles and dual pickups, the advanced electronics, turbo system, and ECU module(s) and the drive-by-wire setup, lead one to believe that this little motor is easily capable of sustaining and using upwards of 300 SAE Net HP and even more torque, with proper modifications and enhancements.

There is little doubt in my mind that Mazda has built a winner in the CX-7, and every time I drive mine I'm glad I'm driving one compared to all the other small SUV choices in the marketplace. I do wish to keep my factory warranty intact, so I doubt that I'll be re-doing the intake or exhaust plumbing just yet, but this vehicle practically begs one to cut loose some of its potential, does it not? I am particularly impressed with the Mazda factory backup of its new small SUV, as they've sent me no less than 3 different owner surveys thus far, and have asked me if I would be willing to be part of a "focus group" for their automobiles at some point. Mazda factory people seem to be automobile enthusiasts by definition, as in "it goes with our territory." And though I haven't thoroughly investigated the Mazda owner's "circle" yet, with its performance "MazdaSpeed" systems and substantial organized racing presence, their name IS on my favorite racetrack these days, "Mazda Laguna Seca Raceway Park".

I think the least I can do for my CX-7 is install a K&N Filter system! I must love it a lot, because I've never spent $2400 or so on Plus 4 wheels and tires on any vehicle, as even my M5's didn't benefit from such lavish praise...

Kindest regards,
rexercx7:cool:

[rexercx7]

Talk about fast "Free Shipping" from Amazon.com! My K&N "FilterCharger" filter arrived in today's USPS Mail, from somewhere in Nevada, so it only took 2 days to get the product after ordering it. I highly recommend Amazon.com's "Free Shipping" service if you ever order there, as it's fast, or faster than paying for 2 or 3-day UPS service every time.

Installing it was a breeze, after I figured out I'd have to *remove* the manifold air inlet hose from the Air Box so I could get to the old paper filter and replace it with the drop-in K&N unit. Once I got the air box unsnapped and off, there was the OEM Mazda paper filter element, and believe it or not it was pretty dirty after only 2K miles, once I removed and inspected it. The K&N filter seems to be a very high quality piece of technology, with a superior oil-based particle trap system, and it's got to work at least as good as the OEM paper POS filter. The K&N filter dropped right into the box, fit perfectly, and once the air box top was replaced it aligned properly and made a nice, tight seal and I only had to snap the 4 fasteners back in place, and replace the air inlet hose to the manifold, and voila! Done deal, safe as milk and twice as nice.:D

I took a brief ride around town, running a bunch of errands, and there's a distinctly different sound from the turbo/air induction system with the K&N filter in place, and it's quite pleasant, actually. I notice even the smallest of differences in engine tonality and sound, and replacing the OEM filter with the K&N FilterCharger has given my CX-7 a nicer, throatier and slightly "turbo-whiney" resonance, and I like it a lot! Different sound than the OEM stock filter, for sure!:)

Being the clean freak that I am about my vehicles, I cleaned all the smudges and fingerprints off where I'd gripped things both metal and plastic under the hood, used some Windex to clean off the filter box top, placed the K&N decal on the box, centered just right, and it looks pretty cool there. I think it was a great idea to replace the OEM filter with the K&N unit, upon reflection, and recommend it to anyone with a CX-7.

Kindest regards,
rexercx7:cool:

[fat tony]

Volkswagons G ladder is very different to a turbo in the construction and the fine particles where bad for the seals. As I understand the turbo shouldnt suffer from the same problems

[Raider]

yeah, we had the K&N panel right away when we got the CX-7, as it is the same as the speed6. It was ok, but when we saw the CAI show 20+ hp gains, and then my wife heard a BOV for the first time, I knew I was in trouble. For the non-tuner, the panel will give you better performance, as it does help the engine breathe. Have had K&N on every car I have ever owned.

[rexercx7]

yeah, we had the K&N panel right away when we got the CX-7, as it is the same as the speed6. It was ok, but when we saw the CAI show 20+ hp gains, and then my wife heard a BOV for the first time, I knew I was in trouble. For the non-tuner, the panel will give you better performance, as it does help the engine breathe. Have had K&N on every car I have ever owned.

Yes, kudos to you for being the performance King of this group, by the way...I suppose that your warranty is voided by the add-ons, yes? That would stop me from doing it, at least for right now, but what an interesting thought...an extra 20 instant HP would make a nice edge over the competition, would it not?:D I only have 2K miles on my CX-7, so it's hardly even broken in about now.

I'd really be interested in some engine mods to the ECU system, more than anything else, like I keep hearing about "SuperChips" for American cars, and you'd think that somebody would jump on that wagon for vehicles like the CX-7, which just has a bunch of HP waiting to be tapped from even a stock configuration. I like your 3.5" intercooler replacement a LOT though, which is getting into warranty territory for sure according to my Service Advisor at my selling dealer, and he's one cool customer overall...not one to over-react to suggesting such a modification in the 1st place. He simply said "Warranty is voided with that mod," when I asked him about it.:(

But re-mapping the ECU would be a really nice thing to do for the CX-7's performance potential, don't you all think that's good territory to explore? Is anyone doing anything in that regard, that anyone knows about at this time?

I'm going to play really stupid here, and ask you what a BOV is by the way! You keep mentioning it, and I'd guess that's a blow-off-valve, but I personally don't understand the dynamics of a different BOV in the CX-7, so you might enlighten me there if you wouldn't mind.

Thanks for all the encouragement and assistance re the K&N FilterCharger system though! It's really a nice piece of work, and at only $34 delivered here a most worthwhile investment for the CX-7. I think I'm going to stick a K&N FilterCharger on the wife's 1990 Honda Accord coupe immediately after this experience.;)

Kindest regards
rexercx7:cool:

[Raider]

Not to take this thread off topic, but here's the scoop on modding your car, and warranty.

Your dealer was right, the warranty is void. but not for the entire car. For the TMIC, the warranty is not covered for the TMIC anymore. It is a simple bolt on, so if the car acts up, we will swap it to stock before going in. It is the same as any modification. I am not too worried, we have the Magnussen Moss Act (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Magnuson-Moss_Warranty_Act)to protect us. They must prove why the aftermarket part damaged the engine.

We are really not concerned, as the modifications we are doing cannot really make the engine explode or anything crazy. They simply make it run more efficient. It could be why we never get less than 20 mpg and up to 25.5 on the freeway.

now, if we have to go in for a rough idle, misfiring, or other problem they need to troubleshoot, an hour of stock reassembly is needed. No big deal for us at all.

Now a chip is a different story, that would void the entire electrical system. Of course, pop in the original chip, go to the dealer, they fix it. But no chip, only tuners to be coming out.

BOV is a blow off valve. The factory one has been shown to leak at full throttle, and with ours, it cannot handle the extra air flow I think, so the plastic dime store junk is being replaced with a TurboSmart BOV, which is metal.


Yes, kudos to you for being the performance King of this group, by the way...I suppose that your warranty is voided by the add-ons, yes? That would stop me from doing it, at least for right now, but what an interesting thought...an extra 20 instant HP would make a nice edge over the competition, would it not?:D I only have 2K miles on my CX-7, so it's hardly even broken in about now.

I'd really be interested in some engine mods to the ECU system, more than anything else, like I keep hearing about "SuperChips" for American cars, and you'd think that somebody would jump on that wagon for vehicles like the CX-7, which just has a bunch of HP waiting to be tapped from even a stock configuration. I like your 3.5" intercooler replacement a LOT though, which is getting into warranty territory for sure according to my Service Advisor at my selling dealer, and he's one cool customer overall...not one to over-react to suggesting such a modification in the 1st place. He simply said "Warranty is voided with that mod," when I asked him about it.:(

But re-mapping the ECU would be a really nice thing to do for the CX-7's performance potential, don't you all think that's good territory to explore? Is anyone doing anything in that regard, that anyone knows about at this time?

I'm going to play really stupid here, and ask you what a BOV is by the way! You keep mentioning it, and I'd guess that's a blow-off-valve, but I personally don't understand the dynamics of a different BOV in the CX-7, so you might enlighten me there if you wouldn't mind.

Thanks for all the encouragement and assistance re the K&N FilterCharger system though! It's really a nice piece of work, and at only $34 delivered here a most worthwhile investment for the CX-7. I think I'm going to stick a K&N FilterCharger on the wife's 1990 Honda Accord coupe immediately after this experience.;)

Kindest regards
rexercx7:cool:

[rexercx7]

Yup, RaiderMS3, they do have to prove that an after-market part damaged or caused damage to the engine as you wrote, but still, that's a 50/50% toss up in court if it came down to burden of proof, and I'd hate to chance it or pay for the good lawyer it would take to argue such a case...expensive either way!

Your MPG on the other hand is outstanding...what I wouldn't give to be getting 20MPG City, and 25+MPH Highway. That would be quite sufficient to satisfy my MPG aspirations for the CX-7 system. OTOH, you probably have access to 93-octane fuel also, which helps a LOT with higher mileage; we can't get that out here in SoCalifornia/California at all..it's just not made.

Ideally, the CX-7 could benefit from the 3.5-inch IC system like yours, a bigger "down pipe", and a cold air box plus an enhanced exhaust system; with those 4 items I think we'd be seeing about 300SAE HP/275-290FtLbs Torque, and *THAT* would be a really, really fun vehicle to drive, methinks...:D If somebody make a "kit" with those items in it, I'd go for it because that's all bolt-on stuff that would yield tremendous benefits, and simple to retro-fit the OEM stuff for any warranty issues...unless it somehow grenaded, of course, and then you'd be screwed! But with the HD components inside of that little DISI turbo motor, the forged crank/rods, HD oiling system, et al, chances are it could easily handle 300SAE HP.

By the way, I haven't pressed the button yet, but does this DISI turbo motor have a rev limiter? If so, it must be pretty high in the RPM dept. because I've had my engine upwards of 6800RPM or so during brief break-in full throttle upshifts, and it hasn't hit a chip there yet. The motor flattens out so much above 6K RPMs anyway that it's practically useless to rev it higher than 6500RPM's for all practical purposes. Wherever redline is, it's definitely NOT sprinting there, if you get my drift!:rolleyes: They're really set up for lower speed power OEM, emphasis on high torque at low RPM's since it's an SUV in any case, and I see absolutely no point in trying to squeeze power out of this motor when it's not there at high RPM's anyway.

Which is why I brought up the idea of someone doing a 'Chip for the CX-7, and building into the power curve more high RPM HP yield. The potential is definitely there for the pickin' IMO, as it's just a question of somebody actually doing it, doing the R&D necessary to re-map the ECU for more power at higher RPM's...because the guts of the DISI turbo motor are certainly HD enough to handle it, quite frankly. It's just an excellent build of a 4-cylinder twin-cam variable-timing turbo motor, and they didn't skimp when it came time to overbuild the bottom end & oiling system of the thing!:)

Such pipe dreams, huh? Listen, if somebody would come up with a "kit" with those components in it for somewhere around $2500 to $3,000 installed and ready to rock, we'd be lining up like crazy to score such a system!

Kindest regards,
rexercx7:cool:

[shadow1]

The only way to hit the rev limiter is the manually shift. The CX7 makes little power after 5500 rpm, since the ECU does not maintain 15 psi boost at high rpm. So no point in revving that high.

[rexercx7]

The only way to hit the rev limiter is the manually shift. The CX7 makes little power after 5500 rpm, since the ECU does not maintain 15 psi boost at high rpm. So no point in revving that high.

Well, there was a point in me revving the motor to 6800RPM a couple of times during the break-in cycle I put the engine through actually. A motor never fully revs freely, any motor, if it's subjected to conservative putzing around driving when new. You must vary the engine speed and RPM of *any motor* during break-in, when it's going from 0 miles to 1200-1500 or so miles, a LOT. And once in awhile, it's a good thing to push the RPM's to maximum, or close to maximum RPM's as this practice will allow the valves, cam lobes, piston rings, and other internal parts to fully seat-up and seat-in.

I only revved it to 6800 or so once or twice, and did not hit any rev limiter/speed limiter device, so although there's literally no point in revving the motor that high from a "getting HP standpoint", it's still interesting to me that for a motor that puts out its peak power at 5500RPM, that its rev limit is apparently 7000RPM (?) or thereabouts. In BMW automobiles, for comparison, especially the M-cars, one shifts right *AT* the rev limiter's cutoff point in order to achieve the car's full horsepower and torque output, and realize the vehicle's fastest performance index. I have not driven the new 335i BMW Twin Turbo machine yet, or its equivalent in the 5-series, the 535i, but I'd be most interested in how BMW has set up their turbo system, considering their engines' normal characteristics of "sprinting toward the rev limiter", ie the harder you push it, the faster it gets there via RPM.

I don't have my Road & Track handy with the 335i road test stats in it, but as I recall, maximum RPM in that motor is 6000RPM, and its 300HP peak power is achieved at 5800RPM, while 300 ft lbs. of torque is linear from 1400RPM up to 5000RPM or thereabouts, with their twin turbo setup having small, tiny identical differential turbo's pumping force-fed inter-cooled air into the direct-injected double-vanos timed DOHC motor. I'll betcha that motor still "sprints toward redline" just like their normally aspirated motors do, unlike the CX-7 setup which basically loses boost and power at any speed above 5500RPM or thereabouts.

I agree completely that there's no reason to push the CX-7's single-turbo motor, with its 244HP peaking @5500RPM, anywhere near its apparent 7000RPM (?) redline, so please don't misunderstand why I did rev mine to 6800RPM or so once or twice during its break-in period. I was, in fact, surprised at the motor's ability to rev that high in the 1st place, and why there wasn't a rev-limiter at or about 6000RPM. In fact, I was floored by the experience, and remembered it well for the future and other driving situations. Then there's the whole topic of the Aisin 6-speed Manu-Matic Shift transmission and how it goes about its business of getting from one gear to the next at higher RPM's. There's a distinctive "hesitation" in shifting with this transmission, and RPM's quickly drop off to lower levels as there's a "lag-time" between the shift and its actual implementation by the transmission...which is a behavior I could do without! This in manual mode, of course.

But that's what we've got with the CX-7 6-speed transmission. If it shifted quickly like I'd like it to, like it *should*, acceleration times would come down to below 7-seconds for the 0 to 60 sprint, which now comes up in about 7.75 seconds according to the various road tests of the CX-7. I'd like to have my cake, and eat it too, which is not possible with the Aisin 6-speed transmission, a virtual shame IMO.

Kindest regards,
rexercx7:cool:

[shadow1]

you can't compare the CX7 motor to the BMW 335. Totally different setups. You must understand that Mazda prioritized low turbo lag quick turbo spool over high peak power numbers. They used a much smaller turbo compared to the MS6 or MS3 snails. The downside is that this turbo runs out of steam before redline. However, I suspect there is a little more top end power to be gained if the ECU could be reprogrammed to hold boost higher up (or take the boost control away from the ECU with a boost controller). But I doubt that the CX7's little turbo will "make power all the way to redline." Even my Evo's 16G turbo power output falls off toward 7000 rpm. It peaks around 6600-6700 rpm. That's with manual boost control set at 22 psi to redline. The 16G turbo just runs out of steam.

[rexercx7]

you can't compare the CX7 motor to the BMW 335. Totally different setups. You must understand that Mazda prioritized low turbo lag quick turbo spool over high peak power numbers. They used a much smaller turbo compared to the MS6 or MS3 snails. The downside is that this turbo runs out of steam before redline. However, I suspect there is a little more top end power to be gained if the ECU could be reprogrammed to hold boost higher up (or take the boost control away from the ECU with a boost controller). But I doubt that the CX7's little turbo will "make power all the way to redline." Even my Evo's 16G turbo power output falls off toward 7000 rpm. It peaks around 6600-6700 rpm. That's with manual boost control set at 22 psi to redline. The 16G turbo just runs out of steam.

I didn't mean to "compare" the BMW 335i motor to the 2.3L Mazda DISI Turbo Motor, was simply pointing out the two different "outlooks" of each setup, and how BMW has probably "tuned" their twin-turbo motor to still sprint toward redline, like all their motors do. Having worked for them for so many years, and driven and owned so many different BMW automobiles, including the prized M-5's I was lucky enough to have, it's drilled into my perceptions about motors that a BMW engine, any BMW engine, sprints toward the rev limiter every time if you keep your foot into it.

You touched onto something I'd like to see someone develop for the CX-7 motor via ECU re-calibration though, and that's some re-mapping of the boost curve/ignition calibration at higher RPM's...not anything too radical, just a little "nudge" there to give the motor a little more of a bang at, let's say, 5500RPM to 6250RPM's, effectively moving the power curve upward perhaps only 10% or so. It would only come into play at full-throttle obviously, and not effect the reliability or drive-ability of the DISI Turbo motor at all, hopefully. I'd like to have a touch more available power at 5500RPM to 6250RPM's or so, just a touch, not much, and I think it could be easily done with a creative re-mapping of the ECU in that RPM range.

Your TurboXS BOV valve, upon a cursory examination, looks to be the cat's meow of BOV valves, ie it's really made well and heavy duty, with applications for turbos running up to 35 pounds of boost. And as far as your "AEM Intake" I couldn't find *anything* that they make for the CX-7 specifically, though I looked at dozens of web sites and magazine articles online...so what AEM intake system are you using, what's it like, what are the benefits to running it vs a CAI or other intake assembly? Anything you'd care to add about those mods would be greatly appreciated.

I just ordered, for my CX-7, the new 3" TMIC "ETS Top Mount Bar & Plate Intercooler", plus the "CPE XCel Cold Air Intake System" from the nice people at StreetUnit.com, along with the StreetUnit "High Performance Silicone Boost Tube Kit" (in Red!), which just might impact my torque and HP output somewhere in the range of 30-40 net SAE HP, and enhance the DISI Turbo motor's efficiency also, by simply giving it more cooler, dense air versus the OEM setup. I hope that I'm doing the right things, this being my 1st venture into "tuning" a modern high-output turbo motor's induction system, it goes without saying...so I'm of course curious about what you've done to your system, and if you have bigger and better things planned for the future.;)

EDIT: I just "found" the two threads on your BOV and the AEM intake system you've adapted for the CX-7...still, if you don't mind your thoughts would be valued.

You have a very nice, serious "weekend toy" in your EVO, and seem to know a lot about these topics, so let's hear about your setup, if you don't mind discussing it that is!:D

Kindest regards,
rexercx7:cool:

[shadow1]

The AEM intake is the short ram intake for a Mazda 6 V6. It fits very well. The intake pipe diameter matches the stock MAF sensor diameter so the MAF calibration remains correct. It's cheaper than the CPE part and is not theoretically subjected to hydrolock (although a CPE user on this forum said that the filter is dry in the rain). Here is my review:
http://www.mcx7.com/showthread.php?t=520

The BOV is a TurboXS part designed for the Mazdaspeed 3 and 6. Same motor, so it bolts right on to the CX-7. Should hold boost better than the stock plastic BOV especially with additional mods in the future.

I personally am not motivated to experiment with the CX-7's boost levels. I could weld in an O2 sensor bung and run my wideband O2 sensor. Then plumb in a manual boost controller along with a boost gauge. Then carefully turn up the boost (or just hold 15 psi to redline), and see if the motor will take it. Most OEM's leave power on the table when it comes to forced induction for warranty reasons. The Mazdaspeed motor should be no different.

[shadow1]

Please post your thoughts on the intercooler. If you have the patience, I suggest installing the intercooler 1st and seeing how the CX7 drives. There are reviews on how the intake helps but the only intercooler review is on a CX7 that also has an intake. I'm interested in knowing if the intercooler helps as much as ETS claims. If the factory TMIC is restrictive, then (like the intake) the more efficient TMIC should help a lot.

[shadow1]

From a tuning perspective, so far all the bolt on mods available for the CX7 are all on the intake side. Fortunately the CX7 ECU appears to be very friendly to these mods (unlike my Evo which requires ECU tuning to make an intake work). However, the next big step is to open up the exhaust side. Huge gains can be made on the exhaust side (as with any turbo car). 20+ whp has been seen on the Mazdaspeed 3 with a turboback exhaust. However, the ECU will no longer be able to control boost once things like downpipes and cats are changed out. One definitely will need a boost gauge and some form of boost control (manual or electronic) at this point in the tuning pathway.

[rexercx7]

The AEM intake is the short ram intake for a Mazda 6 V6. It fits very well. The intake pipe diameter matches the stock MAF sensor diameter so the MAF calibration remains correct. It's cheaper than the CPE part and is not theoretically subjected to hydrolock (although a CPE user on this forum said that the filter is dry in the rain). Here is my review:
http://www.mcx7.com/showthread.php?t=520

The BOV is a TurboXS part designed for the Mazdaspeed 3 and 6. Same motor, so it bolts right on to the CX-7. Should hold boost better than the stock plastic BOV especially with additional mods in the future.

I personally am not motivated to experiment with the CX-7's boost levels. I could weld in an O2 sensor bung and run my wideband O2 sensor. Then plumb in a manual boost controller along with a boost gauge. Then carefully turn up the boost (or just hold 15 psi to redline), and see if the motor will take it. Most OEM's leave power on the table when it comes to forced induction for warranty reasons. The Mazdaspeed motor should be no different.

In the thread above, you and RaiderMS3 kind of had a rather strong discussion about the CPE XCel CAI system, and he flat out claimed that there wasn't any "hydrolock" issue after having his installed for some months now.
I would tend to agree with his perspective on the issue, since he actually has the CAI already, so I'm not worried about "hydrolock" at this point.

As far as boost goes, I was simply throwing a thought out there when I mentioned what I did previously, as at this point there's no ECU mapping going on with the CX-7 system by any manufacturer, and the mods are all on the intake side of the equation, which is a little strange for me, thinking about it. You'd think that somebody would come up with an exhaust solution of some sort to go with heavy work on the intake systems, even without changing boost at all.

Kindest regards,
rexercx7:cool:

[rexercx7]

Please post your thoughts on the intercooler. If you have the patience, I suggest installing the intercooler 1st and seeing how the CX7 drives. There are reviews on how the intake helps but the only intercooler review is on a CX7 that also has an intake. I'm interested in knowing if the intercooler helps as much as ETS claims. If the factory TMIC is restrictive, then (like the intake) the more efficient TMIC should help a lot.

My thoughts on the intercooler? I think that the ETS TMIC is a huge improvement over the OEM 'cooler. And I plan on doing both mods at the same time because my mechanic has limited time to work on my CX-7, and is doing the work as a favor for some design work I'll do for him...a virtual trade. I don't see any point in "testing" the intercooler...I'm assuming that it'll be a substantial change from the smaller stock unit as a basis for getting it in the 1st place. As for the CAI, that's an excellent design by CPE for my limited knowledge on the subject, and drawing cool air in from the fender well area is a benefit not a detraction. :)

I think that the designers thought out the CAI unit very thoroughly and RaiderMS3 says his works well, so what can I say about that? It seems a moot point as his CAI hasn't generated any codes or CEL's, so I'm inclined to try out the system for myself with few fears, or reservations based on his results and experiences up to this point. Let's face it, the OEM air filter system/intake system is very restrictive, and you don't have to be an engineer to figure that out...simply adding a K&N Filtercharger improved my CX-7's flow characteristics, it seems!:rolleyes:

I'm looking forward to installing the 3 items I have on order, that's all I know right now, and will report back here in a new thread on the subject when it happens.

Kindest regards,
rexercx7:cool:

[rexercx7]

By the way, I am actively looking for an exhaust system at this point, to compliment all that nice intake modification that's being accomplished very soon. I think it's only logical to pursue this as an adjunct to the mods I am doing, and I hope I can find something nice real soon, because the moment I find what I'm looking for it's going to get purchased rather quickly. I sure don't want something that sounds like a roaring race car would, but some extra volume is bound to be part and parcel of any high performance exhaust system...just not too much of the "loud pedal" is my goal at this point.

Kindest regards,
rexercx7:cool:

[shadow1]

The only bolt on exhaust that I am aware of is a JDM product by a company called Autoexe. They make a lot of CX-7 parts as well (suspension, intake, body kits). It's pricey though. 1000+ for just an axleback muffler. It is available through Corksport out of Washington. However, Corksport is developing their own exhaust for the CX7. Not sure when it will be released. I've been waiting for this one since I heard about it a month ago.

[rexercx7]

The only bolt on exhaust that I am aware of is a JDM product by a company called Autoexe. They make a lot of CX-7 parts as well (suspension, intake, body kits). It's pricey though. 1000+ for just an axleback muffler. It is available through Corksport out of Washington. However, Corksport is developing their own exhaust for the CX7. Not sure when it will be released. I've been waiting for this one since I heard about it a month ago.

I emailed CorkSport last night about their system...maybe I'll hear back from them soon and I'll give an update as to *how* the progress is going, if any. I know about the Auto Exe system, and after researching it last night, it's as you wrote "only a muffler" for $1k or so, and that's slightly crazy. Think it's more show than go also, after using BabbleFish (translator) on their web page for the product, in Japanense.

I'll post back here and in the other thread if I hear anything encouraging from CorkSport.com. I think it's of note that they're engineering an entire system, not just a muffler!;) ...which is what I'm after.

Kindest regards,
rexercx7:cool:

[Copper Red CX]

you can't compare the CX7 motor to the BMW 335. Totally different setups. You must understand that Mazda prioritized low turbo lag quick turbo spool over high peak power numbers. They used a much smaller turbo compared to the MS6 or MS3 snails. The downside is that this turbo runs out of steam before redline. However, I suspect there is a little more top end power to be gained if the ECU could be reprogrammed to hold boost higher up (or take the boost control away from the ECU with a boost controller). But I doubt that the CX7's little turbo will "make power all the way to redline." Even my Evo's 16G turbo power output falls off toward 7000 rpm. It peaks around 6600-6700 rpm. That's with manual boost control set at 22 psi to redline. The 16G turbo just runs out of steam.
Ah, with all due respect, the turbo in the CX-7 is the exact same Hitachi/Warner unit used in the MS6 and MS3 "snails" pushing a peak of 15.6 psi of boost. They did not use "lower boost" as you say. The CX-7 version of the very same motor as those horribly slow "snails" run is simply detuned to run on 91 octane fuel and the boost profile is a little different to allow for more torque at lower end in expense of higher end power. The reason why the power drops off so drastically in the upper RPM range is that is how Mazda programmed the engine to work, to cut boost in upper RPM to protect the turbo and aide longevity. BTW, with respect to the "snails" comment, I hardly consider a car that I have seen run stock 1/4 miles as fast as 13.5, and on the 6 club board seems to average high 13's, stock, in the MS6 as a "snail", but to each their own.

[Copper Red CX]

From a tuning perspective, so far all the bolt on mods available for the CX7 are all on the intake side. Fortunately the CX7 ECU appears to be very friendly to these mods (unlike my Evo which requires ECU tuning to make an intake work). However, the next big step is to open up the exhaust side. Huge gains can be made on the exhaust side (as with any turbo car). 20+ whp has been seen on the Mazdaspeed 3 with a turboback exhaust. However, the ECU will no longer be able to control boost once things like downpipes and cats are changed out. One definitely will need a boost gauge and some form of boost control (manual or electronic) at this point in the tuning pathway.
Again, with all due respect, that is not true either. Those with MS6's with the very same mods are running into fuel cut that is programmed into the ECU to protect the stock turbo. The ECU will still control boost levels with those mods.

[shadow1]

The factory exhaust is definitely restrictive. When I installed my hitch, I removed the muffler. The exhaust w/o the rear muffler is NOT loud. About as loud as my Evo with a high flow turboback exhaust. My assumption is that the 2 catalytic converters and the pre-muffler are muffling things quite a bit. I would design a system that eliminates one of the cats and incorporates better flowing mufflers. Turbo engines respond very well to exhaust mods. As most tuners say, the best turbo exhaust is no exhaust at all. However, any exhaust that is made will be pricey. It will have to be a full turboback since the factory system will not allow for the traditional bolton catback (the 2nd cat is welded into the midpipe). An axleback exhaust could be done inexpensively but to get maximum gains, you need a turboback system since most of the restrictions are in the 2 cats (the 1st cat is in the downpipe). On my Evo, turboback systems start around $800-900.

[shadow1]

A "snail" is a nickname for a turbocharger. Not a derogatory term for the MS3 and MS6! And the CX-7 turbocharger is NOT the same as the MS6 unit. I recall Mazda stating that they used a different unit (and different tuning) for better low end torque. I agree on the fuel cut issue. The ECU will need tuning (reflash or piggyback) to achieve max gains. I'm just unsure of how conservatively Mazda tuned the CX7 ECU. For example, would the ECU allow 10 or more psi of boost at redline before "fuel cut"?

[shadow1]

I just googled online. The CX7 turbo has a smaller hotside. Great for low end spool up but it will limit top end power. Even if the compressor housings are similar to the MS3 and 6, peak power will not be the same since horsepower is determined by RPM as well as boost. If boost falls off at high rpm due to the smaller turbine housing, then peak power will be less as well. The advantage is less turbo lag of course. Bolt on a MS6 turbo would be an interesting experiment. But that will require a fair amount of ECU tuning to work. Given the auto tranny and 3900 lb curb weight, I would rather keep the quick spooling stock turbo and not worry as much about power at redline.

[Leeep]

I remember reading that the turbo itself is the same as the MS3/6 unit.
They made the inlet on the exhaust side smaller to make it spool up faster (less lag).
I've been curious if we could change that. Would the whole turbo housing have to be replaced? at what point would it be cheaper to put on an entirely different turbo. Considering the huge difference in the ouput of the two units, it seems there's a lot to be gained there.

[shadow1]

Mazda made the turbo inlet smaller so the CX7 turbo IS NOT the same as the MS3 and 6 turbo. I suspect that the compressor housings are the same though, hence the confusion. Hotsides can be swapped. 03-04 Mitsubishi Evo VIII owners have done it. The 05+ Evo hotsides are bigger and worth 5-10 whp with tuning. So it is a popular swap for the earlier Evos. Now the big Evo swap is to switch to the Evo IX turbo which has a much bigger compressor side. Worth 10+ whp with tuning. So, I imagine that a turbo swap on the CX7 will provide power gains. However, you will need ECU tuning. This is not just a simple bolt-on upgrade.

[Copper Red CX]

I just googled online. The CX7 turbo has a smaller hotside. Great for low end spool up but it will limit top end power. Even if the compressor housings are similar to the MS3 and 6, peak power will not be the same since horsepower is determined by RPM as well as boost. If boost falls off at high rpm due to the smaller turbine housing, then peak power will be less as well. The advantage is less turbo lag of course. Bolt on a MS6 turbo would be an interesting experiment. But that will require a fair amount of ECU tuning to work. Given the auto tranny and 3900 lb curb weight, I would rather keep the quick spooling stock turbo and not worry as much about power at redline.

Different turbo inlet, yes, but same exact turbo running at a max of 15.6 psi and different tuning. You said "lower boost" in your post, i.e. different turbo which is not correct, same turbo pushing the same boost as the MS3 and MS6. The difference between the peak torque points between the MS6 and the CX-7 aren't that vastly different. The difference in the torque curve is acchieved by using a turbo with a smaller "hot side" and different tuning in the ECU. The boost on the CX-7 essentially comes on at a lower RPM than it does on the MS6, and even different for the MS3 since the challenge with the MS3 is that it is a front drive car. The difference in peak HP on the MS6 is not due to more boost, but rather that the CX-7 is tuned to run on 91 octane and the MS6 is tuned to run on 93 octane. Mazda does not have the resouces to use completely different components in these engines. I have one of each of these in my garage (MS6 and CX-7), trust me......

[Copper Red CX]

Mazda made the turbo inlet smaller so the CX7 turbo IS NOT the same as the MS3 and 6 turbo. I suspect that the compressor housings are the same though, hence the confusion. Hotsides can be swapped. 03-04 Mitsubishi Evo VIII owners have done it. The 05+ Evo hotsides are bigger and worth 5-10 whp with tuning. So it is a popular swap for the earlier Evos. Now the big Evo swap is to switch to the Evo IX turbo which has a much bigger compressor side. Worth 10+ whp with tuning. So, I imagine that a turbo swap on the CX7 will provide power gains. However, you will need ECU tuning. This is not just a simple bolt-on upgrade.
Yes, just saw this after my above post. Same compressor, different hot side.

[Copper Red CX]

A "snail" is a nickname for a turbocharger. Not a derogatory term for the MS3 and MS6! And the CX-7 turbocharger is NOT the same as the MS6 unit. I recall Mazda stating that they used a different unit (and different tuning) for better low end torque. I agree on the fuel cut issue. The ECU will need tuning (reflash or piggyback) to achieve max gains. I'm just unsure of how conservatively Mazda tuned the CX7 ECU. For example, would the ECU allow 10 or more psi of boost at redline before "fuel cut"?
I mis-interperted what a snail was. I get it now..... Sorry. The Mazdas use CAN, so good luck on reflashing. Folks have been using piggybacks like the Xede and supposably CPE is working on a plug and play unit for the MS6 and MS3 that is a piggy back. A manual boost cut delete/controller will work too, but is a good way to blow up the car if you don't know what you are doing. Again, was just correcting that those mods will cause the engine not to be able to limit boost. Mazda built a lot of checks and balances in these things.

[shadow1]

I was trying to make the point that if you change any part of a turbo (like the hotside) than technically it is not the same turbo any more. Similar but not the same. Anyway, sorry if I assumed that the MS6 ran higher boost than the CX7. For some reason I thought it did. Not sure how CAN interface will affect the ability of the aftermarket to reflash the ECU. I'm not knowledgeable enough in this area to answer that question. Too bad Mazda didn't tune for 93 octane. I guess they wanted to be Calif friendly. I know that the Evo tuners on the west coast hate 91 octane. The 2 octane points do cost hp.

[Copper Red CX]

Not sure how CAN interface will affect the ability of the aftermarket to reflash the ECU. I'm not knowledgeable enough in this area to answer that question.

All I know is it makes it a LOT harder to modify your car, tuning, etc....... Reflashing? Good luck. It is pretty integrated programming.

[shadow1]

Most Evo and WRX/STI owners pay to have their ECU's reflashed. There are dozens (if not a hundreds) of tuners for these cars that will flash your ECU. It is a very effective way to tune for more power and still keep the stock ECU for daily use and smog legality. I know of many street driven Evo's with 350+ awhp on pump gas with reflashed ECU's. However, for cars pushing big hp numbers with big turbos on race gas or with alcohol injection (like 500+ awhp Evo's), standalone ECU tuning is the best way to go.

[shadow1]

The 2008 Evo X is suppose to have CAN (like all new cars). But from what I've read, the roadblock to ECU tuning is not the CAN. It's the DSG tranny (like on VW's and Audi's). The tranny is integrated into the engine management unlike true manual tranny. I've also read that drive by wire throttles are also another tuning hurdle. But with enough R and D, it's just another computer and computers can be reprogrammed. My Evo VIII ECU has been remapped for fuel, has a higher rev limit, has had fuel cut removed, and the factory 155 mph speed limiter has been removed.

[Copper Red CX]

The 2008 Evo X is suppose to have CAN (like all new cars). But from what I've read, the roadblock to ECU tuning is not the CAN. It's the DSG tranny (like on VW's and Audi's). The tranny is integrated into the engine management unlike true manual tranny. I've also read that drive by wire throttles are also another tuning hurdle. But with enough R and D, it's just another computer and computers can be reprogrammed. My Evo VIII ECU has been remapped for fuel, has a higher rev limit, has had fuel cut removed, and the factory 155 mph speed limiter has been removed.

As I said, not impossible, but harder. For the Evo there are enough people who will pay for the ECU tuning to justify the greater R&D cost. For a vehicle like the CX-7 or like the MS6? Probably not.

[shadow1]

Good point on the number of potential Mazda customers vs Evo customers. Even though there are only 5000 Evo's per model year (so approximately 25000 Evo's total imported to the US from 03-07), I would estimate that 90% of them are modified in some way. That's a big tuner market. I bet Mazda has already sold 25000 CX-7 (just a guess) for 2007 but less than 1% of owners will modify them. So the tuner market is small. Apparently the tuner market is bigger in Japan for the CX-7 (Autoexe sells a full line of JDM parts). I wonder if there are any other brands of parts that could be imported? It's unfortunate that there isn't a bigger MS6 market. I've seen a fair number of MS3 already (unlike the MS6 which I've seen maybe a half dozen on the road). If that tuner market could flourish, then the CX-7 could benefit.

[WEZOOMN]

We took a Flowmaster 50 series for a Camaro and did a catback exhaust with Flowmaster double wall round tips exiting in the stock openings.
The Camaro has its muffler sideways like ours with the pipe going in one side and exiting both sides.
It was a tad bit louder than what I wanted so we put the resonator back in.........................
PERFECT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
It has a nice sound at idle and low RPMs/Cruzin' and when you hit it...... the sound does NOT increase. Instead what you hear is the exhaust blowing. Hard to explain, but the air blowing out the tips is all you hear.
FANTASTIC!!!!!:D

BTW: I had the tips and the muffler/Pipe work/Welding cost me @200.00.
AND I have the stock system if I ever get rid of the CX-7!!;)

[shadow1]

Wezoomn, did you fab a midpipe as well? Or did you just replace the rear axleback muffler? Flowmasters are notorious for interior resonance. Not the best brand for controlling sound. I was thinking the same thing though - a Camaro muffler might fit the CX-7.

[rexercx7]

For exhaust systems, see the new post I made today in this Forum about CorkSport.com's new system that will be available this summer. I am jazzed about this development!:D

Kindest regards,
rexercx7

[cx7ZoomZoom07]

Just dropped the Filter in and noticed it picks up a lot smoother and I get must more responsive power. I recommend getting rid of that stock filter and getting a K&N to improve power and gas mileage!

[Raider]

We had it before my wife decided to go further into modding her car. We enjoyed ours while we had it. The K&N panel is a good thing to have for anyone.

[drivenhard]

Is there an acceptable method for cleaning the K&N filters besides the K&N kit?

[Raider]

For $10, that is the #1 way to do it. Kit lasted me 3 years on my last car. Spray cleaner, let sit. gently wash with hose. Let air dry. Oil. Let sit. Install. I would not stray from it, as chemicals like carb spray, etc will just ruin the filter.

[drivenhard]

Thanks! I hadn't priced the K&N kit. Sounds like a safe bet for the money.

[rexercx7]

If you're going to go for the K&N FIlterCharger, get your new one from Amazon.com, and get their "Free Shipping" option. It's the cheapest, and fastest way to score that filter setup. I ordered mine that way before we did the intake Mods on mine, and used it for about 3000 miles of driving, and it was a better system than the OEM filter...that's a POS!:p

My K&N just sits in its box with all the other OEM components, now that I have the CPE CAI unit installed. You know, it is quite amazing how much JUNK Mazda puts into their intake systems...and you'll never actually know HOW MUCH OF IT THERE IS until you take it all apart and out! I swear, all those plastic pieces filled up two large cardboard boxes and then there's a 3rd box for the OEM TMIC, another POS. I had a chance to take a good, close look at the OEM TMIC and it is one restrictive, choking item that I say "Good Riddance" to! Anyway, if any of you every dispense with the OEM system and get the CPE unit, or some other CAI system, you'll see what I mean...it's just amazing how much plastic stuff you remove when doing an installation like we just did on my CX-7!

Kindest regards,
rexercx7:cool:

[shadow1]

Try installing an intake on any Honda or Acura. On a TL, there are 3 resonator chambers that the intake air circulates past. Super restrictive. But Honda engineers it that way to muffle the VTEC roar. Ditto Mazda. All that plastic is to muffle the turbo spool up and blow off noises, which it does very effectively. Too effectively.

[Raider]

True that, we started to hear the turbo spool with the panel. Now under WOT, we really hear it with the CAI. The sad looks on RDX and Murano owners as we go past them makes it all worthwhile owning a CX-7.

[mikomi]

I have had my K&N drop in for a week. And there's been a few great things

K&N on first two days

The only thing I noticed was that the turbo kicks in with a lot more power. It was a real kick in the pants because I was not expecting it.


K&N after 10 days

Mileage is much improved. I am getting around 17mpg now (compared to 14.5mpg) with about the same lead foot weight.
Initial pick-up from stop is better to the point that under normal acceleration, the turbo lag is almost non-existent.
Under more spirited acceleration, the turbo lag is more pronounced, but compared to the stock air-filter, there is less of a delay.


Any other perceived improvements are probably all in my head though. But I think the throttle became a little more sensitive after dropping in the filter. Does this mean anything?

Future plans
going to clean the filter once a year with K&N filter cleaning kit. The money it saves me on regular air filter costs is worth it to me if at least it maintains a better level of performance for a year. But where I live there is heavy air contamination by diesel air particulates. So in the coming weeks I will see how well the K&N holds up. But so far, so good. At least the mileage savings seem to be there. :)


By the way, I am spending around $140 a week on fuel. I only go about 500km a week. :(

[gabrielshorn]

The K&N Filter # is: 33-2279.
It is the same one for the 2006 2.3 and 2002-2006 3.0 engines.
BTW the K&N Oil Filter # is: HP-2010, in case you wondered.
-JD;)
Actually, I just looked it up, and K&N's site shows the HP-7013 as the correct filter for the CX-7. The HP-2010 looks like a standard filter with housing instead of the filter and gasket replacement that you need on the CX.

[MAZOOM]

I have had my K&N drop in for a week. And there's been a few great things

K&N on first two days

The only thing I noticed was that the turbo kicks in with a lot more power. It was a real kick in the pants because I was not expecting it.


K&N after 10 days

Mileage is much improved. I am getting around 17mpg now (compared to 14.5mpg) with about the same lead foot weight.
Initial pick-up from stop is better to the point that under normal acceleration, the turbo lag is almost non-existent.
Under more spirited acceleration, the turbo lag is more pronounced, but compared to the stock air-filter, there is less of a delay.


Any other perceived improvements are probably all in my head though. But I think the throttle became a little more sensitive after dropping in the filter. Does this mean anything?

Future plans
going to clean the filter once a year with K&N filter cleaning kit. The money it saves me on regular air filter costs is worth it to me if at least it maintains a better level of performance for a year. But where I live there is heavy air contamination by diesel air particulates. So in the coming weeks I will see how well the K&N holds up. But so far, so good. At least the mileage savings seem to be there. :)


By the way, I am spending around $140 a week on fuel. I only go about 500km a week. :(
I had the K&N filter, you gotta upgrade to a CAI or SRI for that maximum engine sound.

[gabrielshorn]

How about for the "minimum" engine sound? I'm still a kid at heart, and I'd love to see the looks on some of the parents' faces when I gun the engine a little while pulling up to my daughter's school. But I hate when people pimp their Civics with such wide exhausts that they sound more like Harleys. I also value a quiet ride home after work in a great car.

I'm tempted by the CP-E, and would love the HP and potential economy boost, but how much growl will it really give me?

Thanks!

Greg

[shadow1]

The CP-E intake allows you to hear turbo spool up. It is like a sucking noise. A good example is big rig trucks. When they accelerate, you hear a whistle rush of air. That is the turbo spooling up. Not as loud on a car since the turbo is smaller. Inside the car, it is less whistle and more air sucking noise. Not terribly loud but it is noticeable. On a CX7 the CP-E intake has a noticeable power increase over just a drop in K&N filter according to owners that have done both.

[rexercx7]

How about for the "minimum" engine sound? I'm still a kid at heart, and I'd love to see the looks on some of the parents' faces when I gun the engine a little while pulling up to my daughter's school. But I hate when people pimp their Civics with such wide exhausts that they sound more like Harleys. I also value a quiet ride home after work in a great car.

I'm tempted by the CP-E, and would love the HP and potential economy boost, but how much growl will it really give me?

Thanks!

Greg

Many of us have the CP-E Cold Air Induction System, and it totally changes the sound emanating from your engine compartment, to say the least! You'll hear lots of turbo noises after the install, sounds that are totally muffled by the stock intake system/air filter box. It all goes away with the install, and instead you'll have this look:

http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2641650/2

Check out the pictures of the CAI there...

You'll gain about 20HP over stock just by adding the CAI system, at least that's what CP-E's dyno results were on an AWD CX-7.

The ETS TMIC upgrade, going from a 1.5" TMIC to a full 3" bar & plate design TMIC with superior flow characteristics is the 2nd Mod to do, complimenting the CAI system for even more power and torque. By then your stock BPV will be hissing and buzzing all the time, and it's gotta go too. I used TurboSmart's Dual Port BOV, part number in my signature, with a custom BOV adapter, packaged together by a popular vendor here, to dismiss the stock BPV, a cheap piece of plastic that weighs about 9 ounces (I weighed it). It leaks boost under load, losing power and torque, and it hurts driveability and gas mileage IMO, while the TurboSmart BOV is an application-specific unit that does the opposite: it holds maximum boost perfect, adding power and torque, and it's got a big WOW factor to boot.

TurboSmart is releasing a Dual Port (recycles under normal driving conditions, and at peak boost will Vent To Atmosphere, VTA) BOV replacement sometime in October that will be made specifically for the Speed 3, 6, and CX-7, a compact unit, that won't require trimming the TMIC cover to install, by the way. Or so rumor has it. Keep your eyes peeled for that one!

In any case, doing these lightweight Mods (no ECU re-mapping, messing with the stock turbo, nothing radical at all) really enhances the CX-7's 2.3L turbo motor a lot. If you just do the CAI your CX-7 will want for more, trust me, but if you only go there it's still a worthwhile addition. CP-E is a fantastic company with nothing but engineers on staff 24/7, and everything they do is pretty much impeccable, so go for it! Personally I've had excellent support from CP-E on my CAI system. They get back to you quickly if you have any questions or concerns, and I highly recommend their products.

Kindest regards,
rexercx7:cool:

[mikomi]

CX-7 zoom zoomness with various intakes

stock: zoom zoom

w/ K&N drop-in filter: Zoom zoom (see first Z)

w/ AEM intake: ZOOM ZOOM (guesstimated from people's postings)

w/ CP-E intake: ZOOM ZOOM! (note the exclamation mark)

[Raider]

I had the K&N originally, and it did not make it so we could hear spool. It have a little kick for power. Nothing like the TMIC and CAI did. Wanna hear the turbo? Get the CAI or TMIC.

[gabrielshorn]

OK. I'm not quite understanding the sound. Is it just a louder "whirring" sound or is it a pimped Civic, Harley wannabe "BLAAAAAAAAAAAAATTTTTTT"? And is it loud? I realize that "loud" is very subjective, but I think you guys understand that I'm a middle-aged guy that loves ZOOM-ZOOM, but not "ROAR-ROAR!!!"

[Alpha Wolf]

I have seen studies that the flow rate of the K&N drop in filters are not really all that much better than stock. They generally have been shown to not add horse power. However, they do let more small particles enter your engine which may decrease its longevity. The risks aren't worth the rewards if you ask me. It is a waste of money.


Not sure where you think the K&N lets stuff through.

I have run many cars with open element K&N cleaners. My truck had 300,000 miles when sold and ran strong still. You do have to take them off, clean them and remove the old oil and spray on new oil or they will pass crap through.

Power is another thing. If stock it depends if the element is the restriction or the configuration. With the Cx7 or New Beetle the air box and all the bends etc are the restrictions. But their real benefit is that they do not loose power. I run Open element on my Dual Weber Beetle and on my 1964 10 sec GTO Drag car. On the dyno the hp loss is not noticeable when compared to bare intakes. I have had no longivity issues. My Trans Am had over 180,000 hard miles and burned no oil when sold. But you must check them and clean and oil them.

I would go with the CPE CAE if you want power though. The stock air box is just too restrictive.

[rexercx7]

OK. I'm not quite understanding the sound. Is it just a louder "whirring" sound or is it a pimped Civic, Harley wannabe "BLAAAAAAAAAAAAATTTTTTT"? And is it loud? I realize that "loud" is very subjective, but I think you guys understand that I'm a middle-aged guy that loves ZOOM-ZOOM, but not "ROAR-ROAR!!!"

Haven't you ever heard a turbo before, really heard one, like at the drags? Listened to a Porsche twin-turbo on the street, or at an SCCA or GTA event? Turbochargers emit a combination of sounds, spooling up and down sounds, full boost on-power sounds, there is no "Roar-Roar" to a turbo motor unless it's a V-8 or V-10 race motor, and with those you get a combination of turbo and motor roar that you'll never forget hearing. The CX-7 4-cylinder is a pretty quiet setup but for clicking injectors and spark sounds as the RPM's increase, some on-cam noise at higher RPM's, so the turbo sounds you'll hear with a CAI system are much more pronounced than the motor's sound.

Sometimes I just drive around with the driver's window open to hear my CAI emit turbo sounds, and the sounds of the BOV as it works with boost. It is very pleasant, and very noticeable from outside compared to the stock setup, which is very restrictive, non-flowing induction that stifles, muffles any turbo sounds the motor makes. I wish I could drive by you as I do with my neighbors sometimes, give the throttle a stab and let the turbo spool up some, then let off the gas and "whooosh" goes the BOV as it does a VTA from the excessive boost. It's not subtle! And it gets their attention like right now.:)

Some of them really give me a weird look, but it's all good, and I like it.;)

Kindest regards,
rexercx7:cool:

[shadow1]

Hey rexercx7, some people would call you a "ricer"! LOL

[Raider]

I am not sure why. He lacks the 2 foot rear wing, neons underneath, and the necessary LED washer nozzles.

Only drawback I see, chrome wheels. But I can look past that, he has a lot of knowledge.

[rexercx7]

Hey rexercx7, some people would call you a "ricer"! LOL

I know that was meant that in a nice way, so I won't touch it. I am simply enjoying my automobile when I "flash" my neighbors and it's all in good fun in any case. :)

I have had a series of "serious German cars" go through my garage since 1985, still have a very respectable Mercedes-Benz "keeper" that speaks for my conservative side, so I think my identify is safe as milk. The CX-7 is a unique SUV with charisma, utility, and a certain amount of flash going for it, and I have my fun with it. When your neighbors have BMW X3's and 5's, ML500's, Cadillac Escalades, Suburbans (lots of those), PT Cruisers, Chevy HHR's, and the like, a CX-7 is a pleasantly different ride.

Plus it's all mine, something I don't have to share with my better half as she's content driving her "vintage" Honda Accord coupe...cars don't mean a lot to my wife, just a point A to point B thing to her. She's never even asked me to drive the Mazda. We like it for all our errands, even for trips, but all she's ever been in it is my co-pilot or passenger.

Kindest regards,
rexercx7:cool:

[MAZOOM]

All your own, I used to know what that was like, until my dad found himself "in between cars" now hes using my CX-7 like its his, (sure he pays the note but I do much more for him in return) Mudding up the carpet adjusting my seats etc...
So I arranged a rental for him monday. :D

[shadow1]

I guess we can call rexercx7 an audible ricer rather than a visual ricer. hehe. J/k rexercx7!!

[rexercx7]

I guess we can call rexercx7 an audible ricer rather than a visual ricer. hehe. J/k rexercx7!!

I don't care what you guys call me... the CX-7 has taken some lines out of my face, and it helps keep me young like the majority of owners here. Just look at me as your senior's representative if you have to put a handle on it.:p

Maybe Alpha Wolf and I will start a new owners' group for the over-50 set, with our very own Forum. Now there's a new idea for the week!

Kindest regards,
rexercx7:cool:

[shadow1]

It's all good. Just a little forum humor! We're all young at heart. My wife thinks I act like a 19 year old. Ha.

[Raider]

For the 50+ group, we will require the left blinker to be left on permanently. ;)

[rexercx7]

For the 50+ group, we will require the left blinker to be left on permanently. ;)

Funny Raider, very funny!:rolleyes:

I'm going to come back at you privately about that, hah hah!

Kindest regards,
rexercx7:cool:

[Raider]

All in fun... :)

[katie]

I heard that you can fit mazda speed 6 filter into cx7, ...the drop in filter not cold air intake..

Yep, this works. My husband got one and tried to get it in and it worked. So we have the drop in K&N right now. But I haven't heard about a CAI/WAI either yet.