Modus
06-21-2010, 06:17 PM
After many thoughts and personal study, I decided to install the water/methanol injection system on my cx-7. I wrote this post for the guys are interested for this project.
I choose the Labonte motorsports (stage II with with MAP reference) kit, because it has standard in the package the solenoid before the nozzle. I decided to install the nozzle after the intercooler, and I opened a hole 13mm on to the rubber boost tube. (It is required the removal of the TMIC:
http://www.mcx7.com/showthread.php?t=386
and you have to unbolt the 2 clamps with a short philips screw driver)
http://i47.tinypic.com/bisdbo.jpg
I installed a nut(internal), a washer(on external side of the hose) and a liquid silicone as a sealant. The nozzle has 250ml/min output at 150 psi/10 bar of the pump, and it is capable for 300 hp on flywheel at 19 psi/1.3 bar turbo boost because I use ecu reflash.
http://i47.tinypic.com/1zi53k.jpg
http://i48.tinypic.com/vxda9.jpg
I removed the front bumper according to the instructions here:
http://www.mcx7.com/showthread.php?t=2903
I dissapointed a little with the cheap Mazda materials used for protection. I add this photo in order to remove some more bolts and clips because I have european specs model. The clips bolted with yellow are a little difficult to unbolt them, it is better to leave them for the end.
http://i48.tinypic.com/11u87c5.jpg
http://i49.tinypic.com/k12u0o.jpg
I used the windshield washer tank for the source of water/methanol. I drilled a 22mm hole and I bolted the plug with the output going to the pump.
http://i50.tinypic.com/2nu81zk.jpg
http://i49.tinypic.com/s6ps14.jpg
The pump installed on the passenger's side siren's position. The siren relocated a little higher. I used 2 free holes on to body of the car in order to bolt the pump. One of the bolt used for pups electrical ground. I also used zip ties for extra stabilisation.
http://i47.tinypic.com/11ty9o3.jpg
http://i47.tinypic.com/653kvd.jpg
I installed the water methanol hose together with the pump's ground and they passed through the upper part of the water cooler. Somewhere near the nozzle I fixed the solenoid which receives electrical signal from the pump and has parallel operation with it. The solenoid is like a switch, opens when the pump operate and closes when the pump is off. It is like an extra safety in order to avoid water drift from the nozzle and sucking water when the intake is on vaccum.
The controller bolted (not permenantely) on the intake after the maf sensor. From here begins a small hose and receives boost signal from the bypass valve( I hooked up a "T"). Now the controller reads the boost after the throttle batterfly, it uses its MAP sensor and adjusts the pump's output in relation with the psi/bar of the turbo. I used as a start 7 psi/0,5 bar (10% of pump's performance)and as a full psi 19psi/1,3bar (100% of pump's performance).
http://i46.tinypic.com/ve1vn8.jpg
http://i47.tinypic.com/iqkguw.jpg
Now lets go to the electrical stuff. The controller is connected with 15A fuse in operation parallel to the ignition key's position. Be carefull don't use another fuse, because there is a risk of unexpected operation of the pump and the swiched off engine will be filled with water! There is also a led available and this wire must be installed into the dash through firewall (there is a hole between the clutch/brake pedal). I connected the controller's wire ground to the negative pole of battery. Till now I have not tidy up the wires, but I have to do it asap in order to have a clean install of the whole water injection system.
http://i48.tinypic.com/23i7wxu.jpg
Here is a video with a test before installation.
View My Video (http://tinypic.com/r/28rlehk/6)
And video after installation
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FRop8wV2OQY
I use distilled water and ethanol(blue dyed spirit 93 degrees). I am not using methanol because it is expensive in my country(Greece). I use 90/10 water/ethanol mix.
As you know the benefits of the water injection are:
-Lower BATs (Boost Air Temps) than stock at intake manifold.
-Reduced or eliminated knocks
-Increased the octane number of the fuel because the combustion is controlled with the help of water
The intake it is cleaner than stock, it is free from oil steams because normally on direct injection systems there is not presence of fuel through intake manifold which cleans port injection intake manifolds.
There is a slight increase of motor's performance due to lower BATs, no knock (ECU's) retard of ignition timing.
If you set up your ecu tuning based in water injection, you can raise the boost and/or ignition timing. In this case you have to install more safety parts like boost bypass valve(before the wastegate), water flow gauge, water tank level indicator etc. Because in case of lack of water methanol the engine will run lean and this will be dangerous. Also people are running this setups, are using 50/50 water methanol mix or more. It is recommended ecu's tuning on the dynometer.
Raider please correct (if you have free time)my text spelling due to my bad english:)
I choose the Labonte motorsports (stage II with with MAP reference) kit, because it has standard in the package the solenoid before the nozzle. I decided to install the nozzle after the intercooler, and I opened a hole 13mm on to the rubber boost tube. (It is required the removal of the TMIC:
http://www.mcx7.com/showthread.php?t=386
and you have to unbolt the 2 clamps with a short philips screw driver)
http://i47.tinypic.com/bisdbo.jpg
I installed a nut(internal), a washer(on external side of the hose) and a liquid silicone as a sealant. The nozzle has 250ml/min output at 150 psi/10 bar of the pump, and it is capable for 300 hp on flywheel at 19 psi/1.3 bar turbo boost because I use ecu reflash.
http://i47.tinypic.com/1zi53k.jpg
http://i48.tinypic.com/vxda9.jpg
I removed the front bumper according to the instructions here:
http://www.mcx7.com/showthread.php?t=2903
I dissapointed a little with the cheap Mazda materials used for protection. I add this photo in order to remove some more bolts and clips because I have european specs model. The clips bolted with yellow are a little difficult to unbolt them, it is better to leave them for the end.
http://i48.tinypic.com/11u87c5.jpg
http://i49.tinypic.com/k12u0o.jpg
I used the windshield washer tank for the source of water/methanol. I drilled a 22mm hole and I bolted the plug with the output going to the pump.
http://i50.tinypic.com/2nu81zk.jpg
http://i49.tinypic.com/s6ps14.jpg
The pump installed on the passenger's side siren's position. The siren relocated a little higher. I used 2 free holes on to body of the car in order to bolt the pump. One of the bolt used for pups electrical ground. I also used zip ties for extra stabilisation.
http://i47.tinypic.com/11ty9o3.jpg
http://i47.tinypic.com/653kvd.jpg
I installed the water methanol hose together with the pump's ground and they passed through the upper part of the water cooler. Somewhere near the nozzle I fixed the solenoid which receives electrical signal from the pump and has parallel operation with it. The solenoid is like a switch, opens when the pump operate and closes when the pump is off. It is like an extra safety in order to avoid water drift from the nozzle and sucking water when the intake is on vaccum.
The controller bolted (not permenantely) on the intake after the maf sensor. From here begins a small hose and receives boost signal from the bypass valve( I hooked up a "T"). Now the controller reads the boost after the throttle batterfly, it uses its MAP sensor and adjusts the pump's output in relation with the psi/bar of the turbo. I used as a start 7 psi/0,5 bar (10% of pump's performance)and as a full psi 19psi/1,3bar (100% of pump's performance).
http://i46.tinypic.com/ve1vn8.jpg
http://i47.tinypic.com/iqkguw.jpg
Now lets go to the electrical stuff. The controller is connected with 15A fuse in operation parallel to the ignition key's position. Be carefull don't use another fuse, because there is a risk of unexpected operation of the pump and the swiched off engine will be filled with water! There is also a led available and this wire must be installed into the dash through firewall (there is a hole between the clutch/brake pedal). I connected the controller's wire ground to the negative pole of battery. Till now I have not tidy up the wires, but I have to do it asap in order to have a clean install of the whole water injection system.
http://i48.tinypic.com/23i7wxu.jpg
Here is a video with a test before installation.
View My Video (http://tinypic.com/r/28rlehk/6)
And video after installation
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FRop8wV2OQY
I use distilled water and ethanol(blue dyed spirit 93 degrees). I am not using methanol because it is expensive in my country(Greece). I use 90/10 water/ethanol mix.
As you know the benefits of the water injection are:
-Lower BATs (Boost Air Temps) than stock at intake manifold.
-Reduced or eliminated knocks
-Increased the octane number of the fuel because the combustion is controlled with the help of water
The intake it is cleaner than stock, it is free from oil steams because normally on direct injection systems there is not presence of fuel through intake manifold which cleans port injection intake manifolds.
There is a slight increase of motor's performance due to lower BATs, no knock (ECU's) retard of ignition timing.
If you set up your ecu tuning based in water injection, you can raise the boost and/or ignition timing. In this case you have to install more safety parts like boost bypass valve(before the wastegate), water flow gauge, water tank level indicator etc. Because in case of lack of water methanol the engine will run lean and this will be dangerous. Also people are running this setups, are using 50/50 water methanol mix or more. It is recommended ecu's tuning on the dynometer.
Raider please correct (if you have free time)my text spelling due to my bad english:)